2 Week Albania Itinerary

I know Albania isn’t on everyone’s bucket list. Heck, a lot of people have never even heard of it! I’d known Albania would be beautiful, but I didn’t quite expect the country to captivate me the way it did. The friendliness of the people, the delicious affordable food, and the natural beauty and outdoor activities really made it one of the best trips I’ve ever had. Rarely do I revisit a country, but Albania was an exception. I hope this 2 week Albania itinerary helps you plan the perfect trip!

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Albania History

Once a part of the Roman Empire, the area of Albania later became part of the Byzantine Empire. The Kingdom of Albania came to be autonomous in the 13th century but by the 15th century, the area would be incorporated into the Ottoman Empire and with it, Islam spread. In 1912, they declared independence from the Ottomans and modern Albania was formed.

In 1939, Albania was invaded by fascist Italy and became a puppet state only to be taken by Nazi Germany in 1943. After WW2, the People’s Socialist Republic of Albania was formed and led by Prime Minister Enver Hoxha. In 1976, Albania became the first constitutionally atheist country. Throughout the 1970’s and 80’s, Hoxha had over 173,000 bunkers built across the country for protection from a possible invasion. None were ever used for the intended purpose and the cost was extraordinary. Today, you can see the remains of a number of bunkers all over the country. Some have been repurposed for creative uses like museums.

The period of communism was marred by poverty, oppression, persecutions, and intense isolation for Albanians. Enver Hoxha died in 1985 and his successor introduced some reforms that eventually weakened government stability and power. This led to revolts spreading throughout Albania until eventually the first democratic leader was elected in 1992.

In 1997, Albania suffered civil unrest due to a financial collapse when up to 2/3 of the country had invested in pyramid schemes encouraged by the government. Because of their transition in 1992 from a socialist economy to a rudimentary capitalist economy, Ponzi schemes were rampant, with the government involved. When they collapsed, citizens looted army barracks and took up arms demanding their money back from the government. Gangs and organized crime sprang up, establishing control of entire cities. Protests and violence erupted for months until an Italian led UN mission and 7,000 troops restored order.

Things to Know About Traveling in Albania

There are a few things you should know about Albania that will help you plan and be more prepared for your Albania itinerary. First of all, where the heck is it? As you can see below, Albania is a part of the Balkans, north of Greece, and just a hop across the Ionian and Adriatic Seas from Italy.

How to Get Around Albania

Today, Albania is a growing and developing country. The people are some of the nicest you’ll meet and crime is quite low. You’ll find that public transportation is not very developed, infrastructure in general is lacking, and current information on many things is unavailable. You can’t find much online and if you do, it’s sometimes inaccurate. But tourism is quickly expanding as part of their economic model and you’ll find that what makes it slightly easier to travel are the locals who are so helpful and the fact that it feels very safe.

We love a road trip and having the freedom to explore on our own schedule. Albania is a relatively easy country to drive in aside from the chaotic roundabouts in cities where everyone just pushes in when they want. As I’ve heard more than once, traffic rules are more of “suggestions” and Albanians are notoriously aggressive drivers. Pay close attention while driving for people suddenly moving into your lane, bikes, motorcycles, lack of turn signals, etc. I still highly recommend having a car in Albania.

We almost always use DISCOVER CARS for renting a car in Europe. You can click the banners below to compare prices at Discover Cars and Rental Cars. Both are good platforms.

With that said, you could travel around Albania by bus. It will be almost like stepping back in time before the days of the internet. You basically have to ask around where to catch a bus and locals will direct you. Expect things to be a little chaotic and unpredictable. If you want an adventure and have time to spare, go for it! It is getting better as tourism expands however. So you’ll find some blogs and Reddit threads that may be helpful.

Currency

Albania uses the Albanian Lek, introduced in 1926. At the time of writing this, 1 USD is equal to roughly 93 Lek. That fluctuates of course, but in my mind when I’m buying something in Albania, if something costs 500 Lek, I think of it as being close to $5 or 5 euro for simplification. Often things will be priced in euros too, and I may refer to some prices that way based on current listed cost.

Costs

This will vary of course, but to give you an idea of expenses, I’ve provided a few random prices to help you gauge costs to travel here, although prices are increasing unfortunately. The peak season in the summer is always higher prices as well.

Cappuccino: 150-300 Lek ($1.60-3.22 USD)
Glass of wine: 200-600 Lek ($2.15-6.45 USD)
Cocktail: 500-600 Lek ($5.35-6.45 USD)
Salad: 300-500 Lek ($3.22-5.35 USD)
Main Dish: 500-1000 Lek ($5.35-10.72 USD)
Hotel or Airbnb: 2500-9000 Lek/night ($30-100 USD/night)
Car rental: $100-300 USD/week

Of course of all of this can vary. There are certainly hotels higher than $100/night but usually you can find something for less. Komani Lake, because it’s so remote and supplies are brought in by boat, etc. did not have cheaper options that I recall. Tirana and seaside resorts are pricier too.

How to Stay Connected

Local SIM Cards

The most affordable way is to get a local eSIM in Albania. We went straight to the Vodafone stand at the airport because we needed data to use Google maps as we drove. This was honestly a bit of a hassle as it didn’t work at first and we had to turn around and drive back to the airport and go in and get help. But there are stores all over Albania where you can get them.

Prepaid eSIM

Another great alternative is an eSIM you buy ahead like Airlo or Holafly (those links give you a discount). The main benefit with Holafly is they have unlimited data plans, although it tends to cost more.

Home Cell Plan

Lastly, you can use your home cell carrier’s international plan. For me, I had Verizon for years and would get charged $10/day for every day that I turned my cellular data on and used my phone for anything. I just recently switched to T-Mobile and saved almost $100 on my monthly bill plus now I have free international texting and free limited international data. I’m really excited about that.

Many hotels/guesthouses will have WiFi, it’s just not always reliable. Same with restaurants and cafes. But for the most part, it is not difficult to find and works well.

Language

The people of Albania speak Albanian, an Indo-European language. A small part of the population speaks Greek as their primary language. There are also other smaller minority languages like Aromenian, Macedonian, Romani, and Serbo-Croation.

Many Albanian speaking Albanians also speak an additional language. The most commonly spoken non-first languages in Albania are English, Italian, and Greek. English is popular among the younger generation of Albanians, with 65% of children being able to speak English. Russian was taught in schools during early communist times but was short lived. Some Albanians were also taught French during that time.

Religion

Albania is a very secular nation with no official religion. In fact, they became the first official atheist country in 1967. Today, religious freedom is protected under the constitution, however Albania has always been ranked as one of the least religions countries in the world. From one survey, only 39% of the population considers religion to play an important role in their lives. Still, much of the population still identifies with some religion. According to the 2011 census, there are 56% Sunni Muslim (stemming from Ottoman rule until 1912), 10% Catholic, 7% Eastern Orthodox, 2% Bektashi Muslim, 5% non-denomination, 14% did not declare a religion, the rest were smaller minorities.

Albanian Cuisine

Albanian food is a great example of the Mediterranean diet. Staples include olive oil, nuts, fruits, fish, veggies. Regional variations exist between all areas of the country. Meat is quite popular as well as onions, potatoes, cabbage and carrots. Pretty much every restaurant has a traditional Greek salad. Try the Albanian pie called Byrek.

Breakfast traditionally in Albania is light and commonly only bread and jam with tea or coffee. However all the hotels we stayed at had impressive included breakfasts with a variety of meats, cheeses, jams, vegetables, and sometimes even eggs. It was far easier to eat a hearty breakfast here than say, Italy.

How Long to Spend in Albania

Now let’s get into what to do in Albania and how long you should visit for. You could definitely see some parts of Albania in a week, but if you want to experience both the mountains, the beaches, as well as visit some historical towns, you should try to have at least 2 weeks in Albania for the best of everything. We spent just over 2 weeks in Albania in 2023 and even though we saw a ton, I still felt like I only scratched the surface. Then I came back in 2024 to host a group trip with 8 guests for 12 days.

2 Week Albania Itinerary

Tirana – 1-2 Nights

Tirana is the capital and largest city of Albania where you’ll likely arrive by plane. Once a part of the Roman Empire, the area of Tirana later became part of the Byzantine Empire. Tirana was officially founded by the Ottoman Empire in 1614. Tirana is a big city of around 528,000 although Albania’s population overall is decreasing.

Do you need to visit Tirana? No, not really. If you arrive early in the day I would just pick up your rental car from the airport and be on your way if you’re short on time. But if you’ve had a long flight and have plenty of time, Tirana is worth visiting. The Tirana airport is an incredibly easy spot to pick up a rental car, as it’s not in the busy city. However I remember having to walk down the street a block or two to get to the rental office. Tirana is basically right in the middle of the country, so the direction you head is really up to you.

Things to Do in Tirana

The majority of things you’d want to see in Tirana are right in the center all within walking distance. Base yourself somewhere near Skanderbeg Square.

Skanderbeg Square

The most notable square in Tirana, named for their national hero, Skanderbeg Square is close to all the sights, including the 18th century Ottoman style mosque, Et’hem Bej Mosque (which is free but you must dress appropriately).

Tirana Castle

The remnants of the Ottoman era wall now house a modern shopping and dining area with upscale restaurants and stores. Don’t expect an actual castle.

The Pyramid of Tirana

Built in 1988 as the Enver Hoxha Museum, Albanians have repurposed the building after the fall of communism into an IT center for youth. They built staircases on the sides of the pyramid so now you can climb it for a fantastic view over Tirana. I recommend going around sunset.

Enver Hoxha’s Former Residence

You can walk by the former communist dictator’s residence and see it basically in the same state it was when he lived there, just more run down. He had a swimming pool in the basement and an underground tunnel to escape to a bunker. The whole area around his home was kept under very tight security. People who recall that time describe it as a mansion unlike anything any of them had seen before. And even though it’s not that impressive to see now, Albanians were living in poverty and had little to no contact with the rest of the world.

Bunk’ Art 1 and 2

These are unique history museums about Albanian history, the communist era, and Albania’s secret police that are housed in actual bunkers. Entrance fee is a bit high at 900 Lek ($9.75). Bunk’Art 1 is supposedly better at providing an understandable overview of Albanian history.

Go to the Albanian Night Show

This 5 star rated show in Tirana teaches the audience about Albanian culture with traditional dance and music. It can be booked as either just the show or a show plus dinner. I didn’t get the opportunity to do this as I didn’t know about it, but I’m absolutely going to make it a priority if I make it back to Albania.

Where to Stay in Tirana

You can get to the city center near Skanderberg Square from the airport via the shuttle bus in about 30 minutes or you can take a taxi. Or if you have your rental car, many hotels have parking too.

The most popular area to stay is in the surrounding neighborhoods of Skanderberg Square. The city center is easily walkable here. Below are some moderately priced hotels with great ratings in that area.

Hotel Boutique Restaurant Gloria

This is where we stayed and it was a fantastic small boutique hotel. The included breakfast was the best I’ve ever had at a hotel. I highly recommend this place!

Ambassador Skyline Apartments 

Vila Jasmine

Ginger Home Tirana

Tirana Central Rooms

Albanian Riviera – 3 Nights

From Tirana, the Albanian Riviera is south. There are numerous beach towns like Vlorë, Dhërmi, Himarë, Sarandë, and Ksamil. They are all great options for a beach destination. I chose Himarë because it was close to a beach we wanted to hike to and it was central to explore north and south beach areas. It turned out to be a really good choice.

Vlorë felt too much like a big city for me. I was looking for a quaint beach town. It does, however, have a very cute Italian district with hip restaurants, bars, and cafes. I wouldn’t be mad about spending some time here.

Dhërmi is small and has cute beach bars and restaurants. There are also beach resorts along the coast that are more quiet and secluded away from the towns too, but you’ll likely spend more money for food on site. I think Dhërmi is one of the best options.

Sarandë is a bit larger than my preference and I didn’t think the ocean is as pretty here. We stopped for lunch in town and overall it felt crowded and touristy with far too much traffic and developments. Perhaps it would be better in the shoulder season.

Ksamil is smaller like Himarë but it feels far more touristy and “resort-like” to me like they’re trying to be the Caribbean. Prices are much higher, although the entire Riviera you’ll likely experience higher prices. Ksamil is only about a mile from the island of Corfu. However, to get to Corfu, the ferry port is actually located in Sarandë. If you take that ferry trip, remember you’ll need your passport and there’s an hour time difference.

Finally, Himarë is small with a nice beachfront promenade lined with restaurants and a few nice beaches. The beaches, of course, can be crowded with paid umbrellas but you’re always welcome to put out your towel on the pebbles for free.

What to do in the Albanian Riviera

Explore the area by car. Visit the towns you didn’t stay at. Stop at cute little cafes with views of the ocean. Aside from that, here are some ideas:

The Blue Eye

There are actually two Blue Eyes in Albania. This one is about half an hour from Sarandë. It is a natural spring with beautiful clear blue water. You either park and walk half an hour or pay to take a scooter our tourist train. Swimming is not allowed and it gets quite busy. I actually skipped this one because the reviews and pictures just didn’t seem that appealing.

Gjipe Beach

I definitely recommend visiting this lovely beach. You have to drive down a narrow paved road then the parking area has a fee of around 3 euros. From there, it’s a short hike to get to the beach of maybe 20 minutes on a dirt road. This can get hot on a warm day, especially hiking back up in the heat of the day and going uphill. Bring plenty of water with you and sun protection.

Gjipe Beach is a really stunning, pebbly beach. There are lounge chairs for rent (10 euros for a pair at the time of writing this) as well as a few basic restaurants so bring some cash.

If you are a strong swimmer, you can swim along the cliff to the left side of the beach for about 30-40 minutes each way to another lovely beach accessible only by water with a tiny beach bar and Pigeon Cave. I purchased a cheap air mattress in Himarë the night before to bring with me as a security floatation device. I would avoid doing this on a day when the water is rough or if you’re not a confident swimmer.

Himarë Castle

Just a few kilometers from Himarë in what’s considered Himarë Old Town is the Himarë Castle. The old ruins are fun to explore for an hour or two. It requires a short walk and stable shoes. The ancient walls probably date back to the 4th or 5th century BC! There is also a tiny church with old frescos.

Absolutely make a stop at the Cafe Butterfly when you’re up there. It’s a bit of a maze but look for a door in the old rock walls that enters into someone’s house. You walk through and the sweet woman has a patio with the most incredible view of the ocean and Himarë below.

Porto Palermo Castle

This structure is located on a tiny isle connected by a strip of land not far from Himarë. When the castle was built is unclear. Some say it was in 1804 by Ali Pasha but others say it is much older than that and at least some part of the structure was built by the Venetians. During WW2 it was used as a prison. Today you can tour the castle and prison cells for around 300 Lek.

Butrint Archaeological Park

This ancient site of ruins just 18 km south of Ksamil displays archaeology from the Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman times. The site encompasses around 36 square miles. It is partially a marshland so the variety of landscapes provide habitats for a number of species. You could easily spend a few hours here. Amazingly, only a small percentage of the site has been discovered and excavations are ongoing. See some pictures and read much more information about Butrint HERE. Below are some tours you can take:

Where to Stay in the Albanian Riviera

This kind of depends on your preference and whether you want to be on the beach or in town within walking distance to cafes, etc. Listed below are some highly rated hotels in great locations.

Sea View Hotel

This was where I stayed my second time in Himarë and I really liked it! It was great having a pool, the rooms were nice, and the breakfast was fantastic. It was just a couple minutes from the beach and a number of restaurants.

Réa Boutique Hotel

This Himarë hotel looks like one of the nicest in the area with lovely ocean views and outdoor bathtubs as an option.

Magic Ionian 

About 1 km out of the main part of town in Himarë, these apartments have a lovely quieter beach out front and great reviews.

Soñar en el mar

A newer Himarë hotel with ocean view balconies just opposite the beachfront boardwalk. Just steps to the restaurants along the water.

Demi Hotel

This 4 star hotel is in Sarandë with its own beach area and a restaurant.

Buzë Hotel

A little pricier hotel in the Ksamil area on the beach.

Hotel Meta

For something more budget friendly in Ksamil, but still basically on the beach with great reviews.

Green Coast Resort and Residences 

If you’re looking for something much more high end and away from the bustle of town, this might fit the bill.

Lastly, check Airbnb. You may get something for a better price but give up the included breakfast. Try to find something owned and operated by a local (not a property management company with dozens of properties listed under their reviews).

Gjirokastër – 2 Nights

Gjirokastër is on of my favorite cities in Albania and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And although it has a population of around 23,000 and there is more to it than the small old town, you’ll want to concentrate your visit on the historical part and only really need a couple days to see it.

Things to do in Gjirokastër

Like I said, Gjirokastër old town is small but there are plenty of cute restaurants, ice cream shops, cafes, artisan crafts, and sites to check out.

Visit the Castle of Gjirokastër

The walk up to the castle from the center of old town takes around 10-15 minutes. There are plenty of steps so make sure to wear decent shoes, bring some water, and avoid the heat of the day if it’s hot out. Once you get up there though, it’s mostly inside, cool, and dimly lit. Tickets are currently 300 Lek or around $3.25.

Visit the Cold War Tunnels

You may see the entrance to this as you go up to the castle. Visits are only done by regularly scheduled 30 minute tours for 200 Lek.

Visit the Zekate House or Skënduli House

These are two of the historical beautiful houses open to visitors in Gjirokastër for 250-300 Lek. They give you a glimpse of life (for the more privileged) in this region during the 1700-1800’s. The ornate interiors are beautiful and at Zekate House you can have a drink at their small cafe with a view of the city.

Eat, Drink, and Shop

Albania is still lagging behind on the specialty coffee culture, but the best you’ll find here is either from Te Kubé or Kalimera Patisserie (which is also the best for dessert specialities and pastries). For meals check out Rumors, Simple, and Furra although there are many more. Want a restaurant or drinks with a view? There is Hotel Bar Restaurant KODRA. For a drink on a beautiful street look at Komiteti Bar.

Gjirokastër’s old town intersects in the middle with streets going out in all directions from the center. Each of these streets have tons of little shops to buy Albanian products. I bought a lovely small throw rug here.

Go River Rafting in Përmet

Gjirokaster is relatively close to an exciting rafting experience on the Vjosa River. We did this our second time in Albania and had a great time. Below I’ve listed a couple tour options that are popular.

Where to Stay in Gjirokastër

Gjirokastër has a surprising number of beautiful and really well reviewed guesthouses. And most of them include a hearty breakfast. If the following listed guesthouses aren’t available, have no fear. There are SO many family run guesthouses with a similar traditional style and great reviews.

Alsara Guesthouse

Our first year we stayed here and then we extended for another night because we loved it so much. The hosts are so incredibly friendly and helpful. The breakfast is fantastic. I can’t recommend it enough and it’s perfectly located. Keep in mind some of the rooms have bathrooms located in the hallway, although they are still private to each guest. The rooftop is possibly the best view in town.

Rose Garden Hotel

For something a little more upscale, this hits the mark plus you get the added perk of a swimming pool which isn’t that common in old towns in Albania.

Doda Guest House

Also great reviews and price, located a little on the hill overlooking town.

Berat – 2 Nights

Berat is my other favorite town in Albania. It’s positioned along the Osum River and has a unique style of architecture that makes it very beautiful. The drive from Gjiorkastër takes about 2.5 hours. Berat has a population of around 46,000 and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Things to do in Berat

Berat is one of the main cultural hubs of Albania. Its unique style of architecture comes from influences of different cultures over the centuries. It’s a great city to stroll around. Here are some things not to miss in Berat:

Visit the Berat Castle

If you only do one thing, you should absolutely visit the Berat Castle. It is different than the Gjirokastër Castle; both are equally interesting. But the Berat Castle is almost like another small town within old castle walls on the hill overlooking town. It’s a roughly 20 minute walk uphill to get there. Cars can actually drive there too, and there is limited parking near the entrance to the castle however I think it’s a nice walk. You just take the main road that runs north from the river and there’s a shortcut with switchbacks through the forest or you can take the road.

 

Once inside in the Berat Castle walls, visit the beautiful Holy Trinity Church, the Berat viewing platform, St. Mary of Blachernae Church, and the Muzeu Kombëtar Ikonografik Onufri, an impressive little museum for around 4 euros.

Consider having a beautiful sunset dinner at one of the lovely restaurants within the castle walls like Te Zalua, Mbrica, or Temi. There are even some guesthouses inside the castle which would be fun for a night.

Visit Alpeta Winery

I had multiple people suggest this winery to me the first time I visited Albania and I didn’t get a chance to come. So when I came back to Albania a second time, it was at the top of my list to check out.

The winery is family run since it opened and they’ve expanded greatly from its small humble beginnings. Now they have a beautiful restaurant where you can enjoy a farm fresh meal with your wine tasting. I highly recommend it! And if you have extra time to spend, they also have rooms you can rent.

Go Canyon Tubing

Berat is relatively close to Corovoda which is the meeting point for tours of Albania’s Osumi Canyon. I’ve listed a tour option below that takes you to river tube through the canyon. I haven’t gotten a chance to do this yet but really want to!

Walk Across the Ura e Varur and Gorica Bridges

From the center of the old town, the river is the main feature you’ll notice along with this bridge. There’s a lovely area to stroll on the other side of the bridge with more beautiful historic houses. Continue along the river to the next bridge, Gorica Bridge, to cross the river again and make a full loop.

Where to Stay in Berat

We ended up staying at two different hotels our first trip and a third on our most recent trip. All were fantastic and I’m linking them below, as well as a few other great options.

Guesthouse J. Prifti 

We loved the dark rustic wood and stone walls with traditional decor of this guesthouse. It’s in a beautiful cobblestone alleyway too.

Guesthouse Arben Elezi

This one has a slightly more modern interior so if you’re looking for that traditional, old dark wooden charm, this one lacks that. But the breakfast views over the city are fantastic.

Hotel Onufri 

This was our third hotel in Berat and I really liked this one too.

Hotel Mangalemi 

Timo’s Guesthouse 

Koroni Boutique Hotel

Guest House Luli

This one is located within the Berat Castle walls which would give you a unique experience with more time to explore the area around the castle.

Hotel Klea 

This one is also within the castle walls.

Shkodër – 1 Night

Shkodēr isn’t as quaint and appealing as Gjirokastër or Berat, but it does have a nice center with plenty of great restaurants, bars, and cafes. We stayed there for a night on both visits to Albania for logistical purposes. It is a good hub for bus rides north to Montenegro as well as regional buses to the mountains of Albania.

Things to do in or around Shkodër

I don’t have too many specific to recommendations in Shkodër aside from using it as a departing point if you require bus transportation. But there are a few worthy sites near the city.

Visit the City of Krujë

If you have time to stop (or stay overnight) on your way from Berat to Shkoder, I also recommend a stop in Krujë. It was the first capital of the Albanian state in medieval times and was later taken by the Ottomans until 1912 despite the Ottomans having had 3 unsuccessful attempts at taking Krujë thanks to Skanderbeg, the national hero.

The best thing to visit in Krujë is the Skanderbeg Museum, or Kruja Museum. It is located within the Krujë Castle walls. The other thing to do in Krujë is to visit the bazaar along the narrow cobblestone alleyway where you’ll find all kinds of unique arts and handicrafts.

If you have the time to stay in Krujë, definitely do it. Have a look at Villa Castriota.

Rozafa Castle

This archeologic site sits on a hill just a couple miles outside of Shkodër. Entrance fee is around 4 euros. The oldest structures from Illyrian times date back to BCE. Future possession was by the Romans, Byzantines, Venetians and then the Ottomans.

Mesi Bridge

This Ottoman-era bridge is a popular area for swimming in the beautiful blue river below.

Venice Art Mask Factory

This was a random stop for us but I was so impressed. The factory makes stunning and intricate Venetian masks of all different styles for Venice. You can take a tour of the small factory for just a few euros and see all the different stages of the masks being made. Then they have a showroom with finished masks where you can shop. Unlike so many other artisan tours I’ve taken, there was no pressure to buy and nobody bothers you in the sales shop. I was shocked by how cool this place was.

Where to Stay in Shkodër

Hotel Tradita

I thought this was a beautiful historical hotel and really loved our stay.

Çoçja Boutique Hotel 

This one has lovely reviews and looks beautiful.

Hotel Epoka

We stayed here our first year in Albania and I thought the hotel was nice with a fantastic value.

Komani Lake – 1 Night

Komani Lake is a reservoir in northern Albania fed by three rivers. The hydroelectric dam was constructed in the 1980’s. There are a few ways you can see this beautiful area. You can either take the 2.5 hour long ferry from one end to the other, or you can take a day tour of one of the most beautiful areas called Lumi i Shales (aka the Shala River), or you stay overnight in a guesthouse along Lumi i Shales if you want more time there.

Komani Lake Ferry

The second time we were in Albania, we took the ferry which is considered one of the most beautiful ferry routes in the world. Also importantly, the ferry is practical. It runs daily up and down the reservoir and transports passengers and vehicles between Koman and Fierza. Don’t expect luxury; the ferry is incredibly basic.

The ferry can actually cut off time from a long drive in northern Albania. For example, one of the most popular things to do in the mountains is hike from the village of Theth to Valbona or the reverse. There is no road between the two so you must hike the mountain pass. You can connect the two ends of the hike with the ferry.

For example:

Take a bus from Shkoder to Theth village, hike to Valbona village, take a bus to Fierza ferry terminal, take the ferry to Koman, then take the bus back to Shkoder. Or you could do the reverse trip.

Lumi i Shales

The ferry does not go here but you can see the turn to get to Lumi i Shales from the ferry route. The waterway in a canyon to Lumi i Shales gets narrow and turns a fluorescent blue color the closer you get to the guesthouses. There, you’ll find small restaurants, guesthouses, bars, and umbrellas for lounging.

We chose to stay overnight in a guesthouse near Lumi i Shales on our first visit to Albania which was pretty amazing. Lumi i Shales is one of the 3 rivers that feed the reservoir. Most tours offer a day tour of the area where they’ll let you spend a few hours there. But if you book one of the few guesthouses, they’ll coordinate with you how to get there with which boat to catch and when.

If you don’t have a vehicle, you can take the shuttle that leaves very early from Shkoder to get to the ferry terminal and then take one of the numerous tours. Or if you have a vehicle you could pay to park it near the ferry terminal (but there’s a bit of a walk through a long tunnel) or come a day early and stay at a guesthouse near the ferry terminal and leave your vehicle there if they allow it. For example, we stayed the night at Agroturizem Hotel Vila Franceze and they drove us to the ferry for a small fee and stored our car overnight.

I will say, the road to the Komani Lake Ferry is terrible. It looks like it was once paved but now it’s full of potholes and very uneven. Traveling on this road is very slow going.

Refer to my detailed post about Lumi i Shales here for more info about guesthouse recommendations etc.

Where to Stay on Komani Lake

Bee Eco Guesthouse

Guesthouse Zgiboza

Riverside Komani Lake

Riverside Komani was where we stayed, however beautiful it is, it’s quite isolated and a few minutes by boat to Lumi i Shales.

Of course if you don’t have time to stay on the river or the logistic are too complicated, I understand. Consider a day tour from Shkoder instead! I’ve linked some of the most popular ones below:

Theth – 2 Nights

Ahhh Theth. My favorite place in Albania. There’s something magical about this place. It feels like you’ve transported yourself back in time to a small mountain farming village at a time when things were simpler.

This area has been on the radar of hikers and backpackers for years now, but it’s starting to grow in popularity. Locals are opening up their homes as guesthouses and more buildings spring up each year. It’s a bit sad thinking about it eventually changing for mass tourism.

What to do in Theth

Theth is a very small village. There is not a ton to see and do, but it’s incredibly peaceful and there is plenty to keep you busy for 2 days or more.

Visit the Church (Kisha e Thethit)

By far the most photographed and well known landmark of Theth is this lovely wooden church originally built in 1892. During communism, the church was closed but not destroyed and the building was used as a civic center and hospital for the community. After communism, residents financed the reconstruction of a new church in the traditional style of the region, with a rectangular stone tower and wooden roof.

In my two visits to Theth, I’ve never been able to see the inside of the church. But perhaps on a Sunday it would be possible.

Behind the church is a lovely cemetery, albeit a bit overgrown. But it’s fun to walk around and explore the beautiful headstones.

Visit the Reconciliation Tower (Lock-In Tower)

The second most prominent structure you may see in Theth is this “lock-in” tower or Reconciliation Tower, which has been an important part of Albanian heritage and culture for centuries. It’s a tall stone tower toward the end of the Theth valley still owned by a descendant of the family who owned it for centuries. He gives guided tours to explain the history of what the building was used for. Not only could the tower serve to imprison people who committed crimes, it was used as a mediation space to resolve conflicts between two parties and their families.

Hike to the Blue Eye

I mentioned another Blue Eye close to Himarë earlier. This one is much less touristy and free to visit. The hike is around 1.5 miles each way from the trailhead to the Blue Eye waterfall and pool. It is mostly flat or gradual for the first half then gets a bit steep in the second half. It’s a good little workout but nothing too strenuous.

The hiking trailhead to the Blue Eye begins around 4 miles south of Theth. The paved road to the trailhead is an incredibly narrow road along a cliff – quite scenic if you can stand the adrenaline of it all. If you have your own car, you can drive to the trailhead and there is plenty of parking there. In fact new guesthouses are also springing up around the trailhead and there are a couple of restaurants there as well.

If you don’t have a car, then you’ll have to walk or hitchhike the extra 4 miles each way. Plenty of people do it, but keep in mind you’ll need lots of water and sun protection. After the 3 mile roundtrip hike to the Blue Eye, the last thing I’d want to do is walk another 4 miles on an uphill road back to Theth. But maybe that’s just me.

Towards the end of the hike, you’ll reach a bridge over beautiful blue water. You may be tempted to assume this is the Blue Pool and not go any farther but continue until you get to the waterfall and even more beautiful blue pool with a waterfall as seen below:

Don’t miss climbing up the steep ladder and having a refreshment from one of the magical little tables seemingly suspended over the pool on the hillside. This is the perfect spot to try locally made raki, a strong liquor local to the area. Tip: the plain kind is terrible but the blackberry was delicious.

You can continue in a counterclockwise loop past the family restaurant until you cross a terrifying bridge with no railings (please be careful) and then back down to meet up with the trail. Or you can go back down the ladder.

Make sure to bring comfortable hiking shoes, plenty of water, a swimsuit and towel if you want to swim (caution – the water is frigid, which for some people, the shock can be dangerous), sun protection, and cash if you’d like to get a snack or refreshments from the multiple cafes and bars at the trailhead and along the hike.

Hike to the Theth Waterfall

Theth Waterfall is a popular short hike that can be done directly from the village of Theth. It’s approximately 2 km past the Reconciliation Tower and is a relatively easy walk until a steep portion at the end.

Hike the Valbona Pass

This hike is one of the most popular Theth hikes that crosses the Valbona pass to the village of Valbona. It’s pretty much a full day hike when you factor in stops for food, breaks at the little mountain huts for refreshments, etc. Our first year in Albania we didn’t do this hike because it rained heavily the day we were going to do it. So I made sure to fit it in on my second trip.

Hiking Stats:

Distance: 9.5 miles (from the trailhead in Theth to the end of the hike in Valbona at Hotel Fusha e Gjesë Rragam plus any extra distance from your guesthouse in Theth to guesthouse in Valbona).
Elevation Gain: 3146 feet
Difficulty: Hard

Here’s the thing with this hike. It’s one way. So you have to make the decision of how you do this hike depending on whether or not you have a rental car. If you have a rental car, your options are to hike some of it and then turn around and come back, or all of it in one big hike and then come back. Or, if you wanted, you could hike there and stay the night in Valbona then hike back to Theth the next day.

To be honest, I wouldn’t want to hike this twice. If I had a car, I’d probably settle for hiking to the top of the pass and then back down to Theth.

However, if you don’t have a car, you could stay in Valbona and then take the bus-ferry-bus back to Shkodër. Perhaps you could leave your rental car at a hotel in Shkodër while you are gone a few nights. This also begs, what to do with your luggage? We were lucky on our second trip that we were hosting a group trip and we had a minibus driver who transported our luggage to Valbona for us.

Where to Stay in Theth

There are a lot of guesthouses and new places popping up around Theth. I’ve stayed in two different ones and was happy with both. Personally, the location was important to me as I wanted to have a view of the church. Theth is nice because it’s pretty compact though, so most things are easily within walking distance. From one far end of the village (Reconciliation Tower) to the other end where the trail begins to hike to Valbona and there’s a convenience store, it is only about 1.7 km. Anywhere in this valley is going to be convenient and beautiful. The lovely church is in the valley closer to the Reconciliation Tower and I personally love that area.

Bujtina Polia 

This is probably one of the oldest and most longstanding family run guesthouses in Theth. We stayed there last year for a night as well as this night with our group trip for two nights. It’s simple and well located and provides breakfast. For some reason they no longer take reservations through Booking and only do it directly.

Bujtina Pllumi Theth

We stayed here one night last year and really liked it. A very sweet family runs it and it’s in a great, quiet location up on a hill overlooking the valley.

Shpella Guesthouse 

We didn’t stay here but we walked over numerous times to have food at their restaurant which was quite good. They are very friendly and have a beautiful traditional property in a wonderful location.

Guesthouse Gjin Thana

This one has very good reviews and I had saved it but never got to stay there. Some rooms share a bathroom so keep an eye on the details of what you book so there are no surprises.

Gurra Family Guesthouse

This one is popular, although a little pricier than some others. But the reviews are great as well as the location.

Bujtina Tinari Theth

Another great location and reviews for a great price.

There are many others, so have a look at what you can find HERE.

Valbona – 1 Night

Valbona is different than Theth and I personally didn’t like it as much. It doesn’t have the same feeling of being in a tiny village back in time like Theth did, at least not to me. I could be biased because I visited Theth first and spent most my time there. Valbona may have an edge in terms of mountainous beauty though, although it is more spread out and stretched along miles of a paved road that runs through the valley and riverbed between beautiful mountains. The river is a stunning blue color. Guesthouses and camping are tucked in along the road along with some restaurants.

Valbona feels less walkable. Like you can’t see across the valley to the other guesthouses and just walk around and explore through trails through farms like in Theth. Like I mentioned, there’s just one main road.

When you come from Theth across the mountain pass, you end up in a rocky wide riverbed for what feels like way too long until you start seeing guesthouses and the start of Valbona. This part of the hike felt really long to me. If you are staying the night in Valbona after your hike, it may behoove you to book something relatively close to the end of the hike instead of another mile or two down the road.

As a landmark, the start of the road and place where our shuttle bus picked us up at was Hotel Fusha e Gjesë Rragam. After our long hike, we stopped here for a refreshment and then our van shuttled us to our next guesthouse. But even from this first hotel and the start of the paved road, it’s still another 3.5 kilometers until the majority of restaurants.

To depart Valbona, you can take the bus, then ferry, then bus back to Shkoder for 28-35 euros/person at 10 or 10:30 am.

You can buy tickets either HERE or HERE.

Where to Stay in Valbona

You have to decide if you want to stay somewhere close to the end of the hike from Theth or a few kilometers farther, towards the center of “town” where you’ll be closer to the few restaurant options.

Guesthouse Hyrmet Demushi 

If you want to be close to the end of the hike so you can check in and not have to worry about getting a ride to your guesthouse or walking farther, this is about as close as you can get. They have great reviews too.

Villas Jezerca Guesthouse

These little cabins and guest rooms have great reviews (aside from WiFi) and are in the midst of the most developed part of Valbona, meaning you have more restaurant options. It is still around 4 km past the end of the hike from Theth though.

Vila Alexander B&B

This is where we stayed with our group and it was quite beautiful. The vibrant blue river runs by, they have a stunning garden, and it’s quiet. However it is almost 20 km down the road and very isolated. So I don’t recommend this for someone who doesn’t have a car or wants to be able to walk to restaurants.

What to Pack

Obviously, don’t forget your passport, drivers license, and an International Drivers License (you can get these at AAA same day).

Bring a waterproof bag for the beach. My friend bought a hip/crossbody waterproof bag and we used it to swim to the cave and put phones in there. I love the NiteIze brand at REI like THIS ONE.

Most beaches in Albania are full of pebbles. You’ll want some kind of beach and water shoe. You could go for full booties like THESE or just some sandals that strap on and are waterproof. I use these Tevas and can also hike in them. If you plan to hike the Theth-Valbona pass, make sure you have good hiking shoes. I swear by Altras and have the ones below.

You also need an electrical adaptor if you’re traveling from the US. We like this one because it can be used all over Europe and with usb plugs.

 

Albania Itinerary Summary

I realize this is a ridiculously long post but I hope it gives you some idea of how to structure your two weeks in Albania. Of course it is customizable to your interests and timing, etc. Also keep in mind that Albania is constantly and rapidly changing and tourism is growing at a rate that, I think, they may not be prepared for. So take advice, prices, links, times, and info in this article with a grain of salt, because it will likely not be accurate for long. But I hope it’s still helpful in planning your overall time in this wonderful country that has a very special place in my heart.

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