Of all the countries and regions I’ve visited, nowhere dropped my jaw quite like the Italian Dolomites. I put off visiting the Dolomites for so many years because I was overwhelmed by the planning. I wrote this post to help you plan an incredible Dolomites itinerary and make your week in the Italian Alps as magical as possible.
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When to Visit the Dolomites
The Dolomites are a year round destination. The time of year you should visit depends on what you want to do there. If you want to ski, obviously winter and spring are going to be the best time. For hiking, both summer and fall are amazing. Expect to have snow until early-mid June, so some hikes may not be accessible until then. For the purpose of this post, I’m focusing on hiking season in the summer and fall.
Visiting the Dolomites in the Summer
My personal preference is always to have great weather but this is never guaranteed in the mountains. July and August will be the warmest but busiest so in my opinion, end of June and September are great “sort of shoulder” summer months.
We went the last week of June and had a mixed bag with weather. Some days were t-shirt and shorts and other days I needed a puffy coat or rain coat, neither of which I had because I’m a martyr for packing light and I knew I’d only be cold for a week out of two months in Europe. There was still a tiny bit of snow at the top of some of the highest cable cars we took, but for the most part everywhere was stunningly green with wildflowers blooming! Pure magic.
Visiting the Dolomites in the Fall
September and October are great times of year to visit the Dolomites. The weather may be chillier and gloomier, but not always. Somedays can see summer-like sunshine and warmth. The colors later in October and early November will be lovely because this area has tons of larch trees which are the evergreen trees with needles that turn golden and drop in the fall. The overall color of the mountains shift from green to golden brown, so the aesthetic of photos change drastically.
Where to Fly Into the Dolomites
The closest major international airports are Venice, Munich, and Milan but you could also look at Innsbruck, Treviso, Verona, and possibly even Bolzano for regional airports that connect from other European cities. We flew from Albania so our flight arrived in Treviso which was a pretty easy 2 hour drive with our rental car. Coming from Venice should be similar. Venice is the most straightforward and close major international airport.
Check for Flights!
How to Get Around the Dolomites
Assuming you arrive in Venice, you can rent a car from the airport and drive about 2 hours or there are multiple daily buses with either the Cortina Express, the ATVO, or even Flixbus that go directly to Cortina d’Ampezzo in around 2 hours and are reasonably priced.
I definitely recommend having a car while there for more freedom to arrive at busy trailheads early and explore easier. We almost always use Discover Cars in Europe and find the rates to be the best. However if you don’t feel comfortable driving in another country, I totally get it; I’m that way.
Public buses are quite plentiful and affordable in the region, you just have to do your research and figure out how to get around. You can take the previous mentioned buses from Venice to Cortina d’Ampezzo, or if you plan to stay on the western side of the dolomites, you can take a bus or train to Bolzano.
Only have time for a day trip from Venice? Hey, one day is better than none! Check out these tours:
What Towns to Base Yourself in the Dolomites
There are dozens of fantastic little towns all throughout the Dolomites. It can take a lot of time to travel from the east side of the Dolomites to the west side so you want to base yourself close to the attractions you’d want to see. I felt like it made logical sense to split the time between a central location in each side of the Dolomites. You can see quite a bit in 3-4 days (with good weather) in each area.
Cortina d’Ampezzo
We chose the popular ski town, Cortina d’Ampezzo, in the eastern Dolomites for its relatively larger size with more amenities and lodging options as well as proximity to some of the sites we wanted to see. Aside from that, it’s incredibly beautiful and well known. The population is around 6,000 residents but at the height of ski season, swells to up to 50,000 with visitors.
Where to Stay in Cortina d’Ampezzo
There are plenty of places to stay in Cortina but they do sell out quickly and nothing is “cheap” in my opinion. The town is small but swells with tourists. Personally, I like to use Booking and filter for review scores above 8 or 9 and parking available (if I’ll need it). I usually filter by my max price I’m willing to pay per night as well. Then I either filter by distance from the city center OR look at the map view and zoom in to an area I want to stay. I always pay close attention to the review scores specifically for location too.
Cortina is small so pretty much anywhere in town is great and walkable. We booked so late, we ended up about 2 miles outside of town and had to drive to town each time we wanted to eat and parking could be a hassle. I’d recommend staying closer to town to avoid that. However, if you prefer to eat breakfast at your hotel, eat during the day while you’re out exploring, and have your own car, consider other hotels farther away from town too! Many hotels include an amazing breakfast and coffee drinks made to order. We just got stuck at a barebones Airbnb with no amenities or food so going to town to get breakfast before hiking was necessary.
Here is a long list of some well reviewed and located hotels in no particular order. Keep in mind that there are SO many more but they do book up quickly. And oftentimes they have a minimum stay requirement of 3-7 days so many won’t come up when you search if your stay is shorter than that.
Hotel Ciasa Lorenzi
If you could snag a room at this popular hotel, you’d be lucky in terms of value. For the price (around $200/night), the reviews are fantastic, location is excellent, and breakfast included.
Hotel Corona
A few minutes walk from the center of Cortina with breakfast and parking included.
Franceschi Park Hotel
This is a stunning hotel in Cortina with great reviews. Price is around $200 but could be more depending on season and room type and breakfast is included.
B&B Hotel Passo Tre Croci Cortina
This one is 15 minutes outside of town but the nice thing is it’s situated right at the trailhead for Lago di Sorapis which is very convenient for not having to find parking.
Hotel Natale
Right in the heart of Cortina along the main road. Parking for a fee.
Radison Residences Savoi
Certainly not cheap, but the location is pretty unbeatable. Lots of amenities like a pool, spa, parking, and breakfast – all for an added fee though.
Grand Hotel Savoi
If money were no object…this beautiful hotel is perfectly located, has a spa and pool, breakfast, and great view.
Hotel Montana Cortina
This hotel could be under or above $200 depending on time of year and room type but it’s a perfect location and has a well reviewed breakfast included. It’s the only hotel I happened to get a picture of.
Hotel de LEN
Absolutely gorgeous and stylish hotel with a hefty price tag. Parking is an expensive extra fee.
Hotel Villa Alpina
Lovely hotel in town with breakfast included.
Val Gardena
In the western part of the Dolomites, most people base themselves in the region known as Val Gardena, which is a valley consisting of 3 villages (going from east to west): Selva di Val Gardena, Santa Cristina, and Ortisei. Any of these three villages would be a good place to stay. One of the most popular sights, Seceda, can be reached from the cable car right in Ortisei, so that might be one reason to stay there along with it being the largest of the three villages. If you prefer to have more restaurants and shopping at walking distance, Ortisei may be the best choice. Selva is quite popular as well.
We chose Santa Cristina based on hotel availability and loved where we stayed. We easily drove to Ortisei for dinner a few minutes away if we wanted something different from what was available in Santa Cristina. Each of the three towns are beautiful and you can’t go wrong.
Where to Stay in Val Gardena
Prices seemed to be slightly lower in this region than Cortina and it is possible to find accomodations under $200/night. Here again I’ve listed some well ranked hotels in no particular order that I’d be trying to snag if I had an upcoming trip.
Ortisei
Sule Hof Agriturismo
A small hotel with a farmstead twist, beautiful views, amazing breakfast and incredibly good reviews. The stay also includes access to a pool/steam room in town. It’s almost a mile to walk to town and to the Seceda cable car. This one gives you the more rural mountain vibes but still conveniently close to town. Perfect for walking off that pasta dinner on your way back up the hill.
B&B Villa Angelino
Great reviews and location and if you were looking for a more budget room for a single person, they have tiny twin rooms for a reasonable price.
Hotel Genziana
Great location in the center of Ortisei, fantastic reviews, a sweet and savory breakfast buffet, and a free spa and sauna.
Classic Hotel Am Stetteneck
A classically beautiful hotel in the heart of Ortisei also with a pool and sauna and breakfast included.
Residence Magdalena
Really amazing reviews again. Indoor garage parking, apartment style with kitchenettes, which of course means there is no breakfast provided.
Hotel Digon and Hotel Pinei
Each of these hotels I listed because of their impressive outdoor pools and views as well as the positive reviews. They are both within a 5-10 minute drive of Ortisei.
Hotel Garni Snaltnerhof
Location can’t be beat, very friendly service, delicious breakfast, affordable parking, and family friendly.
Selva
Selva is a great little village and only about a 12 minute drive to the Seceda cable car in Ortisei.
Villa Seceda
About as affordable as you can get and still have great reviews, it’s a simple hotel but it looks like they have a 3 night minimum.
Hotel Comploj Adults Only
This hotel has a stunning outdoor pool and view.
Garni la Bercia
Fantastic reviews, quaint property, stunning views, and reasonably priced.
Garni Rubens B&B
Adorable family run hotel with great reviews, breakfast, and quite affordable depending on room type and season.
Garni Hotel Miara
Extremely good value for the reviews and size of rooms, as well as breakfast and parking included.
Santa Christina
This is the small town we stayed at between the other two. It’s less than a 10 minute drive to either Selva or Ortisei. I honestly thought this town had more beautiful views from town than the other two but maybe it was just me.
Garni Hotel Geier
Three night minimum but pretty good prices for what you get which includes breakfast and free parking and great reviews.
Vitalhotel Dosses
Really stunning setting with heated outdoor pool and unique cave like spa, a game room and library in a historic building, breakfast and parking included.
Bed and Breakfast Iman
Very good value but 1 week minimum stay.
Dorfhotel Beludei
Beautiful and luxurious hotel with gorgeous hot tub views and an indoor pool.
Badia
Badia is a commune roughly smack in the middle between Cortina and Val Gardena, about 45 minutes to each connected by Valparola Pass and Gardena Pass respectively. We stayed in this area for one night as we went from east to west, but it certainly wasn’t necessary to break up the drive. For convenience, I’d probably just spend one more night in Cortina or Val Gardena honestly.
Hotel Ciasa Ai Pini
We stayed here and it was really lovely with a beautiful breakfast room and breakfast, free easy parking, and conveniently located. You do have to drive to everything though or catch the bus. This hotel location was very convenient for us doing the Lagazuoi Tunnel hike, which I’ll talk more about.
Val di Funes
The commune in the valley of Funes (Villnöß) contains a number of tiny towns like St. Magdalena where the frequently photographed church of St. John/Johann (Chiesetta di San Giovanni in Ranui) can be found. Things have a lot of names here and not to be confused with St. Magdalena Church (Chiesa di Santa Maddalena), which is also in the area a couple kilometers away.
It’s a truly beautiful valley but quite a long drive from other sights. I’d only recommend going if you have extra time after doing the hikes and cable cars at the top of your list. You certainly can visit as a half day trip so you wouldn’t have to stay overnight. But if time allowed, I think it would be a magical village to stay overnight.
Unterkantiolerhof
This farm stay is in a great location walking distance to St. Johann Church, an outdoor hot tub with great views, a sauna, and it’s family friendly.
Austillerhof
Great views and value but they require a 4 night minimum.
Gruberhof or Ritzhof
Both are moderately to lower priced and have stunning views from along the narrow winding road that leads into the valley.
What to See and Do in the Dolomites
You can explore the Dolomites completely independently, driving all over and checking out hikes and viewpoints on your own, you can take paid tours with a group, or some combination with day tours. We always prefer more independence and having a car. Driving in the Dolomites was quite straightforward. Yes the roads are narrow and windy and Italians drive fast, but for the most part, it wasn’t bad. There is a never ending supply of things to do around the Dolomites and I could never pretend to have a grasp on it all. I also won’t go into hut to hut trekking since I didn’t do that and am not too familiar with routes. But the following hikes and activities below are what I’m familiar with and they all blew me away. I’ll add in other tidbits of related activities when applicable.
What to Do Near Cortina
Cortina is a great base and there is plenty of incredible things to see within an hour drive. Give yourself at least 3 days here.
Lago Sorapis
Distance: 3.7 miles each way
Time: Approximately 2 hours to the top
Total 7.5 miles, 3.5 hours (with a quick snack at the rifugio included), 1368 feet gain
Trailhead: 46.556120, 12.204626
The trailhead is located right off SR48 near B&B Hotel Passo Tre Croci Cortina and cars park alongside the road. It can get incredibly full by early morning. Another large free parking area is located HERE 46.556010, 12.198413 and it connects to the trail without adding much extra distance.
We loved this hike despite it being incredibly popular. It’s not particularly difficult; I’d call it moderate. But the trail is along a sketchy cliffside much of the time which makes it a bit dangerous so please be incredibly careful with kids and especially when the rocks are wet. The views are stunning and the lake is a gorgeous milky turquoise. Note that swimming is not allowed in the lake.
I recommend either getting a very early start in the morning or just waiting until late afternoon to avoid much of the crowds and parking issues.
Rifugio Alfonso Vandelli
This rifugio is at the end of the trail by Lago Sorapis. We had some pasta and a nice break from the chill outside.
B&B Hotel Passo Tre Croci Cortina
This is the closest hotel to the trailhead.
Lago Misurina
This beautiful roadside lake is only about a 10 minute drive past Lago Sorapis trailhead. The scenery is beautiful, there are a few hotels along the lake that would make for a magical stay. There are also restaurants at the hotels that would make for a fun lunch.
Quinz Lacondo Al Lago
This is a well reviewed hotel on Lago Misurina with a great location and view.
Lago di Braies
This is the famous lake that you’ve probably seen photos of with the wooden row boats. It is truly beautiful and reminds me a lot of Lake Louise in Banff. To get there, the drive is almost an hour from Cortina. Alternatively, you can also take a BUS.
Parking at Lago di Braies
You must pay for parking at the lake which was not outrageous but still substantial at 10 euros/3 hours up to a max of 20 euros/24 hours. There are multiple large lots which are varying distances to the lakeshore. P4 and P3 are very close, then P2 and P1 are actually a long ways down the road (like 800 meters and 6 km respectively). When the P4 and P3 fill up, they close the road to additional cars. From P1 you can park and pay to take the shuttle for 15 euros. A reservation for the shuttle is required in high season from July 10 and comes every half hour.
In the summer, the road to the lake is closed to cars without a reservation from July 10-September 10th from 9:30 am to 4 pm. Outside of those times, a reservation is not required. So either come early or late OR you can book an entire day of parking in P4 for 38 euros online which includes a 15 euro meal voucher for the onsite restaurant or cafe HERE.
Renting a Rowboat
If you hope to rent a rowboat, it’s best to arrive as early as possible, like by 9 am. Currently, rentals are for 45 minutes and have to be done in person, not online beforehand. The price is high for a private boat, like 50 euros but it’s cheaper if you want to share with a max of 5 people for 15 euros each. For the most exclusive experience, you can rent the boathouse for 450 euros for 1.5 hours for an early morning photoshoot.
The other popular thing to do around the lake is hike. For something simple, walk the roughly 2 mile long path that loops around the lake.
You cannot swim in Lago di Braies or fly a drone.
Hotel Lago di Braies
This is the one hotel on the lake which is spendy but looks magical. Sure would be cool to have that view without the crowds in the early morning and evening.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Three Peaks of Lavaredo)
Distance: 6.2 mile loop (can be shorter or longer depending on side trails)
Time: Approximately 3-5 hours
Elevation: 1617 feet
Trailhead: 46.612590706722756, 12.296716946741
This was one of my absolute favorite hikes of the Dolomites and is popular for good reason. It should be a top priority for your time near Cortina. Plan to spend at least half a day here.
To get here, the drive is about 40 minutes from Cortina. You’ll pass the trailhead for Lago Sorapis as well as Lago di Misurina. You should put Rifugio Auronzo into your GPS as the destination.
The road to Tre Cime di Lavaredo is so popular, they’ve limited how many cars can enter and there is a toll to drive the road which is quite expensive at 40 euros per car. The toll booth is located at 46.599695, 12.269992 and is typically open from late May until late October and is valid for 12 hours from the time issued.
Some people park before the toll gate and hike up the road but frankly an extra 4 miles along the road is not my idea of a good time. The other option is the shuttle.
If you decide to drive, there is a ton of parking around Rifugio Auronzo but it fills up early and they close the road to additional cars. I recommend getting there either before the toll station opens (which varies depending on the month) or come late in the afternoon. We did both because our first day in the early morning was rainy and foggy and the visibility was terrible. So we came another day around 4 pm and most people had left and we basically had the trail to ourselves.
Update: starting in 2025, you will need to prebook the toll road ahead of time online.
From the eastern side of the rifugio, you can begin the famous loop hike of Tre Cime di Lavaredo in a counterclockwise direction. So if you’re down below the rifugio looking up at it, the loop hike will start near the back right corner of the building and loop around the peaks returning on the left side of the rifugio. Alternatively, you can hike it in the less popular clockwise direction. I’d consider this a moderate hike. The elevation gain wasn’t too high and much of the hike is level.
Rifugio Auronzo
As mentioned, this is the first rifugio at the start of the hike where you park. We had breakfast here one day and regretted it. It was very basic and overpriced. I wouldn’t recommend it if you can avoid it.
Cappella degli Alpini
The first structure you’ll come to along the counterclockwise loop is an adorable little chapel.
Rifugio Lavaredo
The second rifugio you’ll come to is Lavaredo after around 1 mile. The trail will start heading uphill for a while after this but the view looking back at the rifugio from up high is incredible.
Rifugio Antonio Locatelli
You’ll reach this one just before the 3 mile mark of your hike. This rifugio is in a pretty epic spot with a view of the three peaks. You can skip this rifugio and follow the trail down around the second half of the hike but I really think you shouldn’t skip it. This would be a great spot to grab a snack or drink on the deck. There are small lakes down in a basin behind the rifugio and following an even longer detour in this direction will take you to yet another alpine lake viewpoint. There is also another spur trail to a cave with views looking back at the three peaks.
To continue the trail, find the downhill section near the little chapel and start descending. As you wind down, the views are just gorgeous. At the junction, stay to the right towards Auronzo Hutte. Unfortunately this descent into the valley means a climb back out so the trail does hit it’s hardest point as it gains back the elevation it lost.
Malga Langalm
The last hut along the route, and just over 5 miles in, is in a picturesque meadow-like area with a pair of ponds and stream nearby. The ponds are a perfect photo spot with the peaks in the background.
The final mile and a half brings you back to the west side of Rifugio Auronzo and the car park area. There is a bathroom building near the rifugio but it’s paid so have a couple euros on you.
Punto Panoramico Cadini di Misurina
You could easily combine this short hike with the Tre Cime di Lavaredo hike since they leave from the same parking lot of Rifugio Auronzo and you very well may have spent 40 euros to drive up and park here.
This viewpoint became Instagram famous over the last few years so this short hike has become quite popular. But it’s absolutely worth doing. It’s a great spot for moody conditions – unless it’s totally fogged in, which is what happened to us when we visited. We arrived super early but couldn’t see more than 10 feet in front of us. So we ate an overpriced basic breakfast and waited for the weather to clear.
It never fully cleared but the passing low clouds were beautiful in their own right. And the short hike to this point is absolutely dramatic and stunning. I think a lot of people stop at the point, get their photo, then turn back. But we continued on a ways to a rock tunnel and the views were just as astounding.
The trailhead is from the Rifugio Auronzo but on the southern side of it, descending downhill. The trailhead location is HERE.
The trail follows the ridge line for around 2 km until coming to the point HERE. There tends to be a line of people waiting their turn to get photos of the point. In our experience, everyone was patient and allowed others to have a couple minutes to run down to the point and get their shots without others interfering.
Cinque Torri
To visit Cinque Torri (5 Towers), drive around 30 minutes west of Cortina on SR48. We took the chairlift from Passo Falzarego 3 Parking Lot. You can also hike instead, but again, my priority was saving my feet and actually enjoying my hike once I got to the main trails. The chairlifts are expensive and add up but so convenient. You could always hike back down if you don’t want to take the last cable car.
The parking here does fill up relatively early so plan accordingly. The first lift is at 9 am, so you might consider being there before that. Round trip adult tickets are 27 euros. Find more info HERE.
Once you take the chairlift up, you arrive at Rifugio Scoiattoli. This is one rifugio where I indulged in a coffee and tiramisu because the view was so great and they seemed to have a good menu of treats.
From here, you can do a number of hikes. Just 5 minutes from the rifugio, you can visit the WW1 museum of trenches and informational plaques to learn how soldiers lived during 1915-1917.
You can do a loop around the 5 towers, with a variety of spur trails off the loop. This is a short trail, maybe roughly a mile.
Another great moderate trail from Rifugio Scoiattoli is up the hill to two other rifugios and their great views. The first is Rifugio Averau and the next is Rifugio Nuvolau. The view from the latter is quite incredible. This roundtrip hike is just barely over 2 miles but relatively steep.
Lagazuoi Tunnels
This was one of my favorite hikes and was a unique experience. During WW1, the Italians and Austrians created an intricate tunnel system in the mountains to fight each other in treacherous conditions. The tunnels now form a stunning and fascinating museum of WW1 tunnel warfare.
Most people take the cable car up and then descend the tunnels to hike back down. You can do it in reverse if you really want. My knees going downhill are as bad as the next guy, so I can see why you may opt for going uphill instead. But we took it slow and my knees actually faired quite well going down. There are also via ferrata routes but we didn’t do them, although they look epic and I’d definitely do them next time.
To access the cable car, park at Passo Falzarego 7 parking which is free at the time of writing this or the parking lot across the road for 5 euros where the cable car is.
If you don’t have helmets and headlamps with you – because why would you – you can rent them at the shop below the cable car. You can rent both for 12 euros per person but we opted to just rent the headlamp. Some people told us helmets were necessary because of low ceilings in the tunnels and the risk of hitting your head. While I absolutely can see how that is a risk, we were cautious and used our hands a lot to touch the ceilings and sides of the tunnels to ensure we didn’t hit our heads. But they are definitely safer.
Take the Cable Car Lagazuoi up to Rifugio Lagazuoi which has an epic view and would be an awesome place to spend the night. One way cable car tickets are 19-21 euros per person depending on the season. This was one of the only spots we saw a bit of snow at the top. It is also a bit cooler in the tunnels so dress accordingly with layers.
Once at the rifugio, there is not just one trail or hiking option. But for the popular trail that we did, which was relatively easy and descends the tunnels and takes you back to the Falzarego Pass parking area, you follow the trail downhill just below the rifugio numbered 401/402. In entirety, it took us less than 2 hours to descend.
What to Do Near Val Gardena
Val Gardena is the other popular area to stay in the Dolomites and is more in the western region of the Dolomites attractions. If you can, aim to have at least 3 days here.
Seceda
Perhaps one of the most iconic views of the Dolomites, Seceda is not to be missed. The Seceda mountain is unique and dramatic and almost feels otherworldly walking along the slanted edge of the peak. In late June, the green meadow-like trail along the side of the mountain was a sea of wildflowers. Truly stunning.
I think the level of “touristyness” of Seceda can be a bit disappointing for some. But if you go in with realistic expectations, it’ll help. Indeed there are plenty of people, roped in trails, fences, etc.
This was the most expensive cable car we took at 52 euros per person. I wanted to make the most of it by ensuring it wasn’t too busy and the lighting was good. I watched the live webcam at different times of the day to see the crowd levels and where the sun would be. This helped me decide to come in the late afternoon.Since cable cars don’t run really early or late, and I wasn’t willing to hike in the dark, I had to settle for seeing Seceda in the late afternoon and caught one of the last cable car rides down. I’d love to stay in a hut in order to have an easy hike to Seceda for sunrise or sunset sometime in the future. One good option is Regensburgerhütte.
To get to Seceda, take the cable car from the town of Ortisei. There is a pretty large parking garage at the cable car station where you must pay for parking then go upstairs to the ticket office and buy your ticket and get on the cable car. It’s actually a 2-part cable car because you have to get out midway up the mountain and transfer to another cable car, which is pretty self explanatory when you are there. Make sure you hold onto your tickets because you’ll need to scan them to get on (as well as the return ride down).
The cable car runs from 8:30 am to 5:30 pm and costs 52 euros per person roundtrip – expensive, but worth it.
Seiser Alm
This region is a picturesque high alpine meadow with stunning views and jagged peaks in the distance. The meadows are dotted with tiny log huts and rolling grass fields.
To reach this region, you can either drive, take the bus, or take a cable car. If you drive, the road is only open to nonresidents before 9am or after 5pm. You drive to Compatsch and pay to park, which is quite expensive at over 28 euros for the day (the equivalent of a roundtrip cable car ticket), OR you can park for 15 euros at nearby Spitzbühl. Either way, you need to walk about an hour to see the most scenic spots. You’re not allowed to drive on the narrow dirt roads past that unless you’re staying at a hotel within the region.
To take the cablecar, go to Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway where the parking is free, it runs from 8am to 6pm or 7pm depending on the date, and the cost of the cable car is 28.50 euros roundtrip per person.
Want to stay in the Seiser Alm region? Go all out with COMO Alpina Dolomites Hotel or Hotel Rosa ECO Alpine Spa Resort.
A popular photo spot is HERE and can be walked to in about an hour from the parking lots.
St. Valentin Church
Near the Seiser Alm region is the quaint little St. Valentin Church. I saw this church in photographs and indeed it is set in a pretty scene with the mountains and town of Siusi behind it. Google maps led us on a bit of a wrong road to get there, which seemed to be someone’s private road through a field. In reality, if you want to visit this church, you need to drive to town and park and take this path to the church. It’s a cute church from the outside but if you’re short on time, I’d say you could skip this.
Santa Maddalena
St. John Church
You’ve probably seen this quaint little church in the middle of a stunning green valley with jagged peaks behind it in photographs. In fact, a photo of it over a decade ago is probably what initially made me add the Dolomites to my bucket list. Prior to coming, in my mind, it was not touristy and locals visit it every Sunday for church. Unfortunately the reality is there is a viewing platform with a line of people and there is a 4 euro entry fee to come closer and the church isn’t even open. Plus I’ve heard there is now an ugly corn field planted in front of it.
Should you visit? If you have an extra few hours to drive there from Val Gardena, yes absolutely. Just satisfying that longstanding itch of seeing the church from the photo from years ago was enough for me. Plus I think the area is beautiful and it would be a lovely town to stay in.
Adolf Munkel Trail
If I had an extra couple days, I’d stay in the area and do some hikes. One great option would be the Adolf Munkel Trail, an approximately 6 mile loop that passes under the majestic Geisler peaks. There are rifugios along the route like Malga Dusler which reviews say has some of the best apple strudel and Rifugio Odle. Park in the paid Zannes car park which can fill up quickly. Counterclockwise apparently offers the best views and gradual descent for the knees.
How Expensive are the Dolomites
I had always heard the Dolomites were expensive. I did find prices more expensive than other rural areas of Italy, especially southern Italy. But otherwise, the prices seemed relatively similar to much of Italy and other moderately to higher priced European countries. Visiting in the shoulder seasons can help.
We spent anywhere from $150 to $180 per night on hotels and those were the cheapest well reviewed places that had ensuite bathrooms. If we’d booked farther ahead, we probably could’ve found some slightly more affordable options. Espresso and dessert is still cheaper in Italy than the US, thank goodness, but everything else is pretty much on par.
What to Pack for the Dolomites in the Summer
The important thing to remember in the Dolomites is weather is very unpredictable. You’ll most likely want plenty of hiking pants, hiking shorts, short sleeve and long sleeve shirts, a puffy jac
Hiking Shoes
I’m a huge fan of Altra hiking shoes and boots. They are lightweight and have a wide toe box and they are like walking on a cloud. Personally I love the Lone Peak Hiker 2 boots. But trail runners would be just fine too.
Extra Socks
Bring more than just one pair per day or be prepared to wash them. A lot of hotels have heated towel bars so once in a while we’ll wash something small in the hotel sink then dry it on the towel rack. But hiking will get your socks dirty and sweaty and a fresh pair will be heavenly. I’m obsessed with Wright Socks and I’ve never had a blister hiking or backpacking since getting them. Life changing!
Hiking Pants
I love leggings, especially fleece lined ones like THESE from REI or THESE from Amazon (which I love), but it’s probably smart to have a light rain or waterproof pant to go over them too just in case. Especially if you’ll be doing some longer hikes or hut to huts. I have THESE from Amazon and love how light they are.
I’m also a huge fan of a hiking skirt. Sounds odd, but some of the skirts from Toad and Co have a built in pair of little shorts with pockets under the skirt. It’s so quick drying and comfortable.
Short and Long Sleeve Hiking Shirts
I’m all about the merino wool. Smartwool from REI is my favorite and comes in all different colors in short and long sleeve.
Puffy Jacket
Having a puffy, packable jacket is a life investment. I use the same one I got over 10 years ago. REI makes great ones like THIS.
Rain Jacket
I love my lightweight REI rain jacket like THIS one. It packs down to be tiny.
Hat
I don’t hike without a hat and I love mine from REI in partnership with artist Katherine Homes. She’s awesome and I love supporting her.
I think it’s also a good idea to have a warm hat. Early mornings are chilly in the mountains.
Daypack
I like something small but able to fit my water bottle and big camera as well as a puffy jacket and snacks. And it must have a waistband with zipper pockets.
Water Bottle
Hiking Poles
You can’t bring these in your carryon luggage, only your checked luggage. So if you’re like me and don’t check a bag, you could rent these at an outdoor store in the town you’re staying at.
Knee Straps
I get knee pain when hiking, particularly downhill, and I usually use long poles on long hikes but I didn’t want to check a bag or rent them. So I just brought my knee straps which really seem to help prevent or lessen knee pain for me. I don’t use them all the time, but just when I’m worried about a steep downhill descent or if I’m carrying a heavy pack.
Sunscreen and Sunglasses
Don’t forget mineral sunscreen especially on those sunny days. Many hikes are very exposed with little shade or cover. I love this brand.
Travel Adaptor
Get a universal one like this so you only ever need one.
Apps to Download
Someday I’d love to travel without technology and a smartphone, just for old time’s sake. But today is not that day. There are so many apps that make travel easier; we are literally spoiled this day and age.
Google Translate (including the offline version)
Absolutely necessary unless you’re fluent in Italian. This app allows you to use your camera to translate menus, have a conversation with someone, read signs, etc.
Google Maps Offline
Before you go, download the areas of the map that you’ll be so you can access them offline.
Alltrails
Even if you don’t use the paid version, Alltrails is super helpful to find trails, reviews of said trails, and follow the map in real time. I also love seeing how many miles I go and the elevation change and how long it took.
ChatGPT
There is so much that AI can be used for these days, but my favorite is to just ask it to tell me the history of a place and learn more about the culture ahead of time. I used to struggle to find podcasts or books to give me a broad understanding of a country’s history before visiting but now I do a cliff notes version with ChatGPT and it’s so succinct or as detailed as you’d like to go. Just remember to take the info with a grain of salt. ChatGPT is only as accurate as the web results it pulls from.
Other Miscellaneous Things
Cash/Card?
Credit cards are almost always accepted in most cities and towns but some smaller businesses may still take cash only. It’s always good to have some euros with you. Tipping is not as customary in Italy as the US but the change or a few euros is appreciated for good service. When you see “coperto” on the bill, that is not a tip to the waiter, it is more of a cover charge for a table, the bread, etc.
To avoid ATM fees, get yourself a debit card through Charles Schwab bank and transfer some money in there before your trip. They reimburse all ATM and foreign transaction fees.
I’m a big fan of credit cards with miles or points that come with lounge access. My life changed when I discovered airport lounges and not having to buy airport meals.
My favorites are the Capital One Venture X and Chase Sapphire Reserved. The annual fee is expensive but the benefits far outweigh the cost. They include travel credits to book on travel as well as reimbursement for Global Entry. These also have the perk of rental car insurance.
Travel insurance
I always get travel insurance for medical emergencies. Chris and I get an annual plan from Allianz. I’ve never had to use it (fingers crossed I never do) but it seemed one of the better deals out there.
International Driver’s Permit
Obtain your international driver’s permit by going to a AAA near you. You can get it at the time of your appointment. Not every rental car agency asks for it, but Italy does require it so you want to be prepared.
Conclusion to One Week in the Italian Dolomites
Well, I hope this whopper of a post has been helpful in planning your Italian Dolomite itinerary. It’s not easy to plan one week in the Dolomites because there is so much to do, but I hope this makes it easier. Let me know what else I should add to my list to see next time!












































Nice overview — clear and practical. Quick question: for late June hikes that might still have snow, any specific trails you’d avoid without crampons or poles? Also, did you find parking at busiest trailheads a real problem early morning? One more thing — I checked prices for Italy here https://world-prices.com/en/Italy/prices but it’s hard to tell if their info is up-to-date.