Dramatic, quaint, epic, charming could all be used to describe the Corsican port town of Bonifacio. Perched high atop the dramatic white limestone cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, is a stunning village seemingly at the brink of falling off the edge. Definitely one of the most stunning villages I’ve seen, Bonifacio should undoubtedly be on any Corsica itinerary. I hope this travel guide helps you plan a two day Bonifacio, Corsica itinerary.

Bonifacio sits at the southern tip of the french island of Corsica just 12 kilometers from Sardinia, Italy. It’s a popular holiday destination for mainland French. Corsica itself sits in the Mediterranean directly below Genoa, Italy. Many ferries connect it to mainland France and Italy.

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History of Corsica

The island of Corsica itself changed hands a number of times throughout history between the Greeks, Roman Empire, the Vandals, Lombards, the Moors, the papacy, Pisa, the state of Tuscany, then Genoese. It became Genoese in the 12th century and still retains some of that culture and dialect.

Finally in 1755 the Republic of Corsica was established after a Corsican revolt against Genoese rule and a period of unrest. Under the 14 year leadership of Pasquale Paoli, Corsica flourished with a progressive constitution that included suffrage for women, the founding of a university, and building their navy.

In 1768 however, the Genoese sold their rights to the French and French troops overwhelmed the new Corsican republic. Corsica became a French province in 1769 and Napoleon Bonaparte was born in the city of Ajaccio that same year. Corsica has remained a part of France since (with a couple exceptions of short-lived British occupation) but has been relatively neglected by France and historically they identified with the Italians more in culture, language, and alliances.

This began to change in the mid to late 1800’s when French language and culture began to take hold. Despite the acceptance of being French, throughout the years many have desired autonomy from France leading to nationalist movements, especially after World War 2, like the FLNC who’ve used bombings and other tactics to achieve their goal. Tensions over independence from France still flair even today.

History of Bonifacio

Although there is evidence of much earlier inhabitants with a burial dating back to 6750 BCE, the city of Bonifacio was founded first as a defensive fortress in 828 by Boniface II of Tuscany, a count and duke. Part of the citadel remaining today, the round tower, dates to that time, but for the most part came later. Like the rest of Corsica, it was under Pisan then Genoese rule.

The small city once survived a five month attack by building a wooden ship within the walls of the citadel, lowering it down the cliff, and sailing to Genoa for help.

A plague outbreak in 1528 reportedly killed three out of every four people in Bonifacio. The Chapelle Saint Roche was erected where the last victim apparently died to commemorate those lost to the disease.

The recorded population of Bonifcacio has not changed significantly from around 3000 people since 1800.

Getting to and Around Bonifacio

The nearest airport is Figari-South Corsica Airport, approximately a 20 minute drive. The airport doesn’t have a ton of direct connections but most are mainland France with a few exceptions. We found it tricky to find a flight off Corsica and ended up cutting our time there short by a couple of days to take a 30 € flight to Toulouse, otherwise flights were over 200 €.

There are three other airports on the island: Bastia, Ajaccio, and Calvi. So you could certainly fly into one of those, rent a car, and drive 2-4 hours to Bonifacio. Public transportation is also an option but bus rides are long and infrequent.

The other option to get to Bonifacio, and how we got there was via ferry. The ride from Santa Teresa Gallura in northern Sardinia is only a 50 minute ride. Other ports throughout Corsica have more ferry connections with mainland France and Italy. You can book ferries through Omnio as well as other ferry sites.

Bonifacio is a very walkable small town. It has an upper town (historic old town) which is the site of the citadel and then the lower town by the harbor (la marine).

When you arrive via ferry, you’ll see the upper town is not an easy jaunt with luggage. When looking at the map and planning our arrival, I thought, “oh the distance doesn’t look very far, we should be able to walk to our hotel in the citadel.” Well, I’m grateful our Airbnb manager picked us up at the port in her car because it would’ve been a steep, sweaty climb with bags. You will find taxis available for this purpose at the port.

Another option is the little tourist train, Petit Train, that transfers you between the port and citadel and runs every 30-45 minutes. Tickets can only be bought in the tourist shop at the marina departure point.

Should You Rent a Car in Bonifacio?

There is plenty to see and do right in Bonifacio for a couple days and you don’t need a car for any of it. We waited to rent a car until two days after we arrived by ferry in Bonifacio but then that meant we had to get a ride to the Figari airport to pick it up when we left Bonifacio to explore the rest of Corsica. If you prefer to pick up your car upon arrival at the airport, you can park your car in the paid parking lots in Bonifacio.

I think the best site to book your rental is DiscoverCars. Every country we’ve traveled in over the last three years around Europe, we’ve compared prices with different rental car sites. As far as I can remember, DiscoverCars has always been the best price. Play around with different pick-up times too. Sometimes putting a half hour or hour later changes the availability and price. It’s also worth playing around with different lengths of rentals.

We found the fee to drop off in a different city to be far too high and many of the rental companies don’t allow you to take the car on the ferry to Sardinia, or if they, the fee is quite high. Check prices with the widget below:

What to Do in Bonifacio

Bonifacio is separated into the upper (citadel) portion and the lower (port) sections. There are a plethora of restaurants, bars, and shops in both areas as well as hotels. I think it’s absolutely worth walking up or down to experience both areas while you’re there and you can see most everything in a day or two.

 

Explore the Marina

Most importantly, Bonifacio is a port town. So the long narrow port is most impressive when arriving by water. Once you disembark, you’ll see the imposing citadel on the hill above you. There is also a large parking lot down here if you have a car and want to stay around the port. The marina is loaded with waterside cafes, restaurants, sweet treats, and shops. There are a number of hotels here as well. Stroll along the promenade and ogle at the fancy yachts and catamarans while you’re at it.

Stroll the Citadel

The citadel, or fortification of the old town, originated in the 9th century, although it has been rebuilt and renovated numerous times since. It is undoubtedly the main character of Bonifacio. If you are coming from the port, you follow the path, Montée Rastello, uphill for about 15 minutes and you’ll see the chapel mentioned previously to commemorate the plague victims on your way up.

You’ll also have a great view of the ocean. Once you pass through the gates of the citadel, you’ll feel the magic and history as you wander through the narrow streets.

You can pay €3.50 to climb atop Bastion de l’Etendard or buy a combined ticket with L’Escalier du Roy d’Aragon for €6.50. From this emblematic spot, you have views over the port and village. With your ticket you have access to the museum and underground chambers illustrating key historical events.

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Climb L’Escalier du Roy d’Aragon

This 189 step staircase has been cut into the cliffside of Bonifacio for over six centuries! You can see the steps from the water as you approach on the ferry. But to actually climb down them (and back up again) is an impressive sight – and a little tiring.

But who the heck built it? Well, going back to the long siege on Bonifacio in 1420 when the residents built a boat to go get help, the attacking King Alfonso V of Aragon ordered his soldiers to dig it in one night in order to get to the town. At least that’s the legend of the staircase, hence the name: King of Aragon’s Staircase. But in reality, the more likely theory is that the steps and path along the cliff led to a fresh water pool that supplied the village and the monks living nearby carved the steps.

Details:

You can book online HERE or pay in person. You can also find the hours there, which vary by month.

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Adult Cost: €5
Children 6-11: €2
Children under 6: €0

They will provide you with a helmet and you’re required to have flat, closed-toe shoes. I would say this may be tricky for small kids or anyone with terrible knees. You’ll definitely be breathing hard on the way up but it’s not horrible. When you get to the bottom, the trail along the water continues for a while and then you turn around at the end. The whole thing took me less than 30 minutes.

Take a Hike Near Bonifacio

There are tons of easy to moderate trails around Bonifacio and you can go for as short or long of a walk as you want.

Campu Rumanilu Trail

This simple trail goes along the cliff east from the citadel starting near the Saint Roche Chapel. You can essentially follow it as far as you’d like to go. It starts out a bit steep but then levels out. The views looking back at Bonifacio get better. This is the perfect spot for sunrise or sunset photos. You can technically follow the path all the way to Capu Pertusatu and the beach of Saint-Antoine if you wanted to but we just went far enough to get a good view.

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Strada Vecia Trail (Plage de la Tonnara, Cape Feno, Plage de Paragan, Plage De Fazii)

This historic road from Genoese times once linked Bonifacio with Sartène 45 kilometers away. Today a section remains and will take you to Plage L’Arinella, Plage De Fazii, and Plage de Paraguan where you can have a swim and ends at Ermitage de la Trinité, a little church. The walk takes around an hour each way and starts on the opposite side of the port.

You can also take this trail to reach the Madonetta lighthouse that juts out from the other side of the port.

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Église Sainte Marie Majeure Church

Saint Marie Majeure Church, a Roman Catholic church, is in the heart of the citadel and is modest but historic. In fact, it’s considered the oldest building in Bonifacio. Started in the 12th century by the Pisans and finished in the 13th century by the Genoese, it is one of the oldest churches of the Genoese colony and was designated a historic monument in 1982.

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Le Gouvernail and La Forteresse de Bonifacio

This unusual attraction only cost 3€ and took me about half an hour to explore. Right smack in the middle of a big parking lot at the end of the peninsula (westernmost part of Bonifacio) is a staircase that descends under ground. It’s a very unassuming opening in the parking lot that is easy to miss. There’s a snack shop down the stairs where you can buy your ticket. You continue down the 168 steps into a tunnel. Eventually it comes out to an opening in the cliffside where you can see the ocean. It was built by French engineers in 1880 as a surveillance site for the entrance into the port with a searchlight.

When you come back up and emerge from the underground stairs, turn 180 degrees and you’ll spot the fortress. It’s not dramatic or anything but the view is lovely and provides little windows to the sea and port. It’s white stone walls seem to blend into the natural cliffside. Bring your phone to use the camera and Google translate because the signs with history are in French.

Also close by on the other side of the parking lot is the beautiful Cimiteriu Marinu di Bunifaziu, the Marine Cemetery. I love old cemeteries in Europe. They have so much history and charm.

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Walk to Capo Pertusato and Plage de Saint Antoine

You can either walk all the way along the Campu Rumanilu Trail from town if you want (around 4 km each way), or you can drive as far as the road will take you which is located HERE. From there you have to walk about 1 km down (and back up) to the beach. If you don’t want to go all the way down to the beach, you can just admire the view over the beach and cape which is quite stunning. There are neat rock formations and a grotto to explore.

Visit the Lavezzi Islands on a Boat Tour

Located approximately 7 km from Bonifacio’s Capo Pertusato is a small cluster of 23 granite islands called the Lavezzi Archipelago. Only Cavallo is inhabited but Lavezzu is visited most frequently. To reach the islands you can take a shuttle boat from the Bonifacio port, rent your own boat, or even kayak. The area is monitored and protected so dropping anchor in certain areas is prohibited. Lavezzu has no infrastructure so don’t expect a restaurant, water, or bathrooms and is quite exposed so make sure to bring water and sun protection and don’t leave anything on the island.

Boats to the islands can be found at the port and depart and return frequently. More information can be found HERE. Reputable tour sites like GetYourGuide offer tons of local tours as well and it’s nice to be able to see reviews before booking. Here are some highly rated options:

Attend a Local Event

Looking to do something totally different and non-touristy? Consider a musical concert or local event! You can check the calendar and buy tickets online.

CHECK CALENDAR

Where to Stay in Bonifacio

There are so many great hotels and Airbnbs in Bonifacio. Keep in mind many are shut down for the winter so you’ll need to look at the calendar into at least April to see pricing and availability.

Hotel Solemare

This stylish and colorful hotel is located at the old port of Bonifacio with a view of the citadel. If you have trouble getting around and uneven ground is a problem for you, staying at the port may be a better bet. The hotel also offers an outdoor pool and free parking.

SantaTeresa

This hotel is located towards the west end of the peninsula near parking lots. While it’s a quick 5 minute walk to the narrow alleyways and restaurants of the old town, you aren’t located within the historic streets. Parking is free but breakfast is extra. It’s not the most aesthetic and quaint hotel, but it is convenient for parking and walking.

Hotel Spa Le Genovese

This lovely hotel is perched in an incredible position overlooking the port of Bonifacio. The hotel offers an outdoor pool, restaurant, modern rooms, free parking, and breakfast for an additional cost.

Náš Hotel Colomba v Bonifaciu

We walked by this hotel a few times and were absolutely enchanted by their restaurant and setting. I’d be trying to book here if I came back to Bonifacio.

Best Western Hotel du Roy D’ Aragon

Right on the waterfront at the harbor with an optional add-on breakfast.

Where to Eat in Bonifacio

Café Des Vestiges

We actually didn’t get to have a meal here but it was on my list and looks delicious.

Le Bastion

Crudo

For if you crave something different than the same Corsican dishes, this has poke bowls and some other healthy options.

Casarella 

We loved the pasta and friendly service here.

Manghjà Bè

Build your own salads, which for someone like me that struggles with blood sugar spikes from a lot of local dishes (pasta, bread) sometimes you just want a variety of salad options.

L’Archivolto 

Beautiful setting, sophisticated high quality food for dinner and on the higher end of pricing.

U Castillé

A beautiful spot with multiple dining areas. We loved the pizza and setting.

Summary

That wraps up our two days in Bonifacio itinerary. I hope it helps you plan your time there! Please add a comment if you have other suggestions or use this blog post.

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