I have long dreamt of visiting the European city of Tallinn, and finally, the airline gods blessed me with a great sale on perfect dates to fly there and see it right before Christmas. Tallinn, Estonia in the winter for Christmas is even more magical than I had imagined. Here is the perfect itinerary for your winter in Tallinn, whether it’s for the Tallinn Christmas Market or later in the winter.
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About Tallinn, Estonia
Tallinn is the capital and largest city of the Baltic country of Estonia. The city is located on the shore of the Gulf of Finland and Baltic Sea. Tallinn is only about 50 miles south of Helsinki, Finland and has a population around 450,000.
I won’t go into detail about the history, because it’s complicated and I’m not well versed enough to say much, aside from the generalization that Estonia has been occupied throughout much of its history. Most recently and notably by the Soviet Union, and before that, Russia, aside from two small stints of being occupied by Germany during World War 1 and 2. Estonia has had two major independences to celebrate. First in 1919 and second in 1991.
Languages
They speak Estonian, which is a Finnic language (related to Finnish), but not related to Russian or Latvian. A smaller portion of people speak regional languages like Voro and Seto. The most spoken minority language is Russian because it was the official language of the region during Soviet occupation from 1944-1990. We found English to be readily spoken and easily communicated with almost everyone, with a few exceptions.
I will mention something we noticed in the Baltics in general, and I only say this because I read a number of people comment on the same topic in numerous Google reviews. The Estonian service is not particularly the friendliest in the world. I’m not sure if it’s just how their culture is to be somewhat standoffish or introverted, but I’m only mentioning it because it seems many other tourists noticed it too. If it had just been an occasional fluke, I wouldn’t have thought much of it, but it was almost universal in Tallinn and Riga, Latvia. It didn’t bother me, but it sometimes made you feel like you were intruding or bothering them by patronizing their establishment. When I occasionally got someone who smiled and was verging on bubbly, it was a notable and welcome exception.
Religion
Estonia is one of the least religious countries in the world. Only 14% of the population consider religion to be an important part of their daily life. Of the population who declares themselves a religion, Christian is most popular, and that is roughly equally split between Lutherans and Eastern Orthodox Christians, practiced mainly by the Russian minority.
Currency and Cost of Travel
Estonia adopted the euro in 2011. We found the cost of things to be on the middle range of prices for many countries in Europe. Hotels were relatively affordable, food and drinks were reasonable but creeping up, and public transportation felt lower than other places in Europe. However they have definitely experienced the pressure of inflation lately, as much of the world has. To give you an idea of what you’ll spend, consider looking at Google maps at some of the restaurants you hope to visit, and look at their menu on their website or recent images. Here is an idea of what some items typically cost:
- Flat white/cappuccino – 3.5 – 4.5 Euros
- A small crepe at the Christmas Market – 4-5 Euros
- Main dish for dinner – 15-25 Euros (or more for a nice restaurant)
- Cocktail 8-12 Euros
- Bolt Ride for 10 minutes or so – 5-10 Euros
Credit cards are universally accepted, and Estonia is quite technologically advanced compared to many places in Europe. I got come cash out at an ATM at the start of our trip just for tipping, as credit cards don’t give the option to tip. I read the generally accepted tipping culture is around 10% if you felt the service was good.
Getting Around Tallinn
Tallinn is very walkable, especially the old town. Even at the longest part, the old town is only 1 km long. You can also safely and easy walk to neighborhoods like Kalamaja and Rotermann City. But if you do want to use public transport, it is free with the Tallinn Card or you can use the Bolt app. Bolt is preferred (and locally founded) in Estonia and I actually prefer and LOVE the app. Prices were very reasonable too.
Public transportation only exists outside of the old town and includes busses, trams, and trolleys. You can use this MAP to click on stations and get idirections on how to get somewhere.
How Long to Spend in Tallinn, Estonia in the Winter?
It’s entirely possible to walk around the old town and “get a feel” for Tallinn in one day. In fact, many people do this as a day trip from Helsinki, Finland via a roughly two hour long ferry ride.
However if you really want to explore Tallinn and get to know it, you should absolutely spend a minimum of two full days. I will dive into many of the best things to do in Tallinn, Estonia but you can pick and choose what appeals to you for your itinerary depending on how much time you have. We spent five days in Tallinn and it felt like plenty of time to see the top sites while also having ample time to try multiple restaurants and experience some of the city outside of the old town.
When to Visit Tallinn, Estonia
If you want to visit Tallinn, Estonia in the winter, you won’t be disappointed by the Christmas market festivities. Check the Christmas market webpage for specific dates. It typically runs from the either the end of November or first of December to after the first week of January. Hotel prices will be a bit higher during this period.
Tallinn typically has mild temperatures in the summer, so of course that would be a lovely time of year to come. However the crowds will be more intense and prices higher. I think Tallinn would be lovely anytime of year, but the notoriety and magic of the Christmas market makes Tallinn, Estonia in the winter the best time of year to visit in my opinion.
Where to Stay in Tallinn, Estonia
I highly recommend staying in the old town of Tallinn. I use Booking for hotels because it has so many great ways to filter. You can limit your search to distance from the center or zoom in on the map in your preferred area. Tallinn’s old town is less than a mile walk to the edge of the Baltic Sea It’s quite a walkable city. I usually set my search perimeters to have a minimum ranking of 8 or 9 out of 10 too.
Hotel Telegraaf Autograph Collection
We stayed at the gorgeous Hotel Telegraaf for the last 3 nights in Tallinn and it was so magical during Christmastime. This was a hosted stay, however I rarely reach out to hotels for partnerships and this was the only one I emailed in Tallinn. I’m very picky about where I stay and where I promote. It has to be somewhere I’d absolutely stay and spend my own money. This hotel was wonderful.
Telegraaf had an included buffet breakfast as well as some menu breakfast items as well. The rooms are decorated with a historic flair and the beds are super comfy. The best is the spa where they have a beautiful pool, jacuzzi, sauna, and steam room. The hours are a bit strange though so keep that in mind.
One of the most important factors for me is the location. Hotel Telegraaf is at the most perfect spot for exploring Tallinn’s Christmas market main square. It is a stunning street at one of the most beautiful intersections of the old town.
Romeo Family Apartments – Budget Friendly
This is where we stayed for the first two days in Tallinn. The apartment was clean and well located to everything. There was a great deal on Booking for less than $40 per night right before Christmas. I was very happy with that price. I don’t think it’s usually that cheap though.
Rataskaevu 14 or Rataskaevu Boutique 7
If you’re looking for something more independent, these apartments are absolutely beautiful and luxurious. They are definitely in the higher price range.
Tallinn City Apartments Old Town
Very affordable apartments in a perfect location with great reviews.
Tallinn City Apartments Old Town Square
These rooms are right on the square so if your main objective is to get a view and photo of the Christmas market out the window, this is your best bet.
Schlössle Hotel
About as nice as it gets in Tallinn old town, Schlössle is a really beautiful hotel and location.
Rapunzel Tower Apartment
This one is pretty incredible. The apartment is located in one of the medieval towers of the city. It has historic charm and is so unique, albeit pretty expensive.
What to do in Tallinn, Estonia in the Winter
There is no shortage of things to do in and around Tallinn, Estonia. For the purpose of this blog post, I’m focusing solely on what to do in Tallinn, Estonia in the winter however it is applicable to any time of year, with the exception of the Christmas Market, of course.
Get the Tallinn Card
Tallinn has a tourist pass that gets you into so many of the sites for one overall price. There are over 50 different attractions included as well as free public transportation (which is actually free to all residents all the time!) and discounts at certain restaurants and other tours and activities.
You can easily buy the Tallinn card online and download the Tallinn card app on your phone, which I highly recommend. I wouldn’t normally care to add another app to my phone but this one was helpful because it shows a map of Tallinn with pins of all the locations covered by the card. You can select for what types of attractions you’re interested in to only see those, then the map will take you there. It’s really convenient. Then when you get to the attraction, pull up the QR code of your Tallinn Card in the app and they will scan it to let you in.
If you need help or have questions, just pop into the Tourist Information Centre right near the main square.
Tallinn Card Prices (Updated)
Prices went up in 2024, and honestly it was a large jump. They went up in price by 23-34% from 2023. I’m struggling to think it’s worth it, to be honest. If you are a museum person and you think you’ll actually go to more than 3 museums/attractions, then the card is probably worth it. We bought the 48 hour pass in 2023 and only went to 4 museums so it probably cost us more than just paying for those tickets individually.
- 24 Hour: 43 € adult, 25 € child
- 48 Hour: 63 € adult, 32 € child
- 72 Hour: 76 € adult, 39 € child
One important thing to note is many museums are closed on Mondays and public holidays. So plan accordingly and don’t buy and activate your Tallinn Card for a Monday. The card is activated upon first use.
I will discuss some of the attractions the Tallinn Card works for in a bit.
Take a Walking Tour in Tallinn
Whenever I visit a new city where I am not quite familiar with their history (which is basically always), I like to take a free (or paid) walking tour if I plan to be there for more than a day or two. Tallinn (and Estonia in general) has SO much history I wasn’t familiar with. Walking tours are an amazing way to get an overview of the place plus some unique facts about landmarks as well as ask the guide any questions you may have. They usually recommend some restaurants and places locals like. This was the one we took:
Free Walking Tour
For other more extensive tours, check out Get Your Guide options below:
Tallinn, Estonia Christmas Market
Awarded the best Christmas Market in Europe in 2019, Tallinn truly has a beautiful one. It feels old and traditional and there is a plentitude of mulled wine (glög), snacks like meats and potatoes and sauerkraut, gingerbreads, handmade souvenirs and trinkets, alpaca wool products, and more. The Tallinn Christmas Market gets around 200,000 visitors per year. They now use reusable cups for a refundable 2 euros which was great to see. There is also a schedule of events and shows you can catch.
- When: November/December -January
- Times: 10am-8pm, may be 10pm or 11pm on Friday and Saturday
- Where: Raekoja Plats is the main square in the center of the old town
What you do at the Christmas market is entirely up to you. You can shop for handicrafts and try the traditional foods and mulled wine, watch the live shows on the center stage on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, see the light shows, take pictures with the 14 meter tree, or ride the quaint little carousel. You can find more about the Tallinn Christmas Market HERE.
Dine at a Medieval Themed Restaurant
Tallinn in general has a really lovely aesthetic like a fairytale from medieval times. In particular during Christmas, the lights hanging over the streets in the old town are magical and there are lit Christmas trees on every sidewalk. Tallinn really is magical in the winter.
One of my favorite things we did in Tallinn in the winter was dine at cozy restaurants and a couple in particular have incredible medieval themes. I realize that sounds cheesy and if not done well, it could be incredibly hokey. These however, were not hokey. They were quite cool. It was like something out of a scene from Game of Thrones. However, if you visit Riga too, there is an even better medieval restaurant.
Restoran Olde Hansa
Located just a block from the Tallinn Christmas Market, Olde Hansa is one of the most notable buildings in the old town. Lanterns flicker outside on one of the most beautiful streets at the entrance in the evening. Once inside, you’ll notice the lighting is very dark and moody and dark wood furniture and flickering candlelight add to the ambiance. Staff play the part well with authentic time period costumes and folklore tales.
Definitely MAKE A RESERVATION. We were able to get in by stopping by and then coming back in half an hour, but I wouldn’t count on that.
*15% Discount and free shot with Tallinn Card! Dang, I’m so bummed I didn’t know this till now, haha!
III Draakon
This smaller restaurant is located right in the Tallinn square next to the Town Hall. It’s less of a restaurant and more of a place to have a drink. They do have some food like empanadas, sausages, and soup. They don’t do silverware though so you have to drink your soup – just like you would’ve in the old days! And the girl taking your order is in character, so expect her to be a cliche tavern wench character with an attitude; it’s intentional. This place is exactly what I’d imagine a medieval tavern to be (minus the brothel upstairs, thankfully). There are not a ton of tables and it was always quite busy at night. I’d suggest snagging a table when one opens and have one person hold the table while someone else goes and orders at the front.
Go Iceskating
Not far from the square, right in front of St. Nicholas’s church is Vanalinna Uisupark. It was far too cold for me to want to go skating while we were in Tallinn but I can imagine on a warmer day, maybe with snow falling, it would be quite magical! Tickets are 7-11 euros and skate rentals are 6-10 euros. The ice rink opens sometime in November and closes again in March or April. It’s really beautiful with the lit up trees around and in the backdrop of the church.
*50% Discount on first hour of skating with Tallinn Card
Go to the Tallinn Museums
While we were in Tallinn this December, the owner of a coffee shop joked with us that Estonians like to create museums for anything and everything. We found this to be true not just for Estonia, but also in Riga. So perhaps it’s a Baltic thing. But indeed there are so many museums, a number of them seemingly random but also impressive and worth your time.
Even with 5 full days I didn’t have time to see them all, and I probably missed some worthwhile museums. But here are some popular ones with my impressions.
KGB Prison Cells
A notorious basement prison during Soviet times, the former KGB prison cells are now open to the public.
*Free with Tallinn Card
Estonian History Museum – The Great Guild Hall
A vast collection of artifacts related to Estonian history are on display here from currency to old weapons and armor. It’s a worthy stop, and although you could easily spend hours here trying to read everything, I breezed through pretty quickly.
*Free with Tallinn Card
Kiek in de Kök Fortifications Museum and the Bastion Passages
This museum complex includes 4 of Tallinn’s 26 surviving medieval towers from the 13th century. My favorite part of this entire museum however, was the underground Bastion Passages. As you pass through these tunnels you learn the history and all the different ways the tunnels have been used by Estonians throughout history. Some of it is rather surprising and incredibly fascinating!
*Free with Tallinn Card
Seaplane Harbour, Estonian Maritime Museum
We heard really great things about this museum and the reviews are fantastic but unfortunately we didn’t make it. There is a real submarine you can walk through, a flight simulator in a plane, and all kinds of interactive programs.
*Free with Tallinn Card
Estonian Health Museum
This one I’d read good things about so I made it a priority to go. Plus it’s near a good breakfast restaurant called 5Senses.
You don’t have to be a medical person to find this museum fascinating. There are a number of floors of different themed displays, one includes actual dissected cadavers. Another discusses aspects of reproduction and history of contraception. Another has old medical instruments and dental treatment history. It’s truly fascinating and would be fun for any age. I could’ve spent hours there but we kept it to about an hour.
*Free with Tallinn Card
PROTO Avastustehas (Invention Factory)
This is another museum I didn’t discover until AFTER we came home. Bummer! But it looks really neat and perfect for kids or families. They have lots of interactive virtual reality experiences as well as a cafe. The reviews are mixed, so I would only visit if you have the time.
*Free with Tallinn Card
Estonian Maritime Museum
This museum demonstrates Estonian seafaring history within one of the many city towers. They have the wreckage of an old merchant ship. You can even get a city view from the rooftop terrace. The reviews for this one are not as impressive as the Seaplane Museum, so if you’re short on time, I would not prioritize this one.
*Free with Tallinn Card
This is not an exhaustive list of every museum in Tallinn or those covered by the Tallinn Card. These are the more popular ones located in and around the old town.
Other Historic Places to Visit in Tallinn, Estonia
Town Hall Tower
Unfortunately the Town Hall was not open while we were there. It’s a beautiful building in the square from 1402 and there are 115 steps to climb to reach the tower. Unfortunately the tower is only open seasonly from June 1-August 31 Monday – Sunday then September 2-October 15 on the weekends only. I’m including it as something to do in Tallinn, but unfortunately, it’s not an applicable recommendation for Tallinn in the winter.
The Town Hall itself has more open dates through the winter but they are still limited.
*Free with Tallinn Card
House of the Blackheads
Although we came here, there was a private event happening so we didn’t see the rooms. This 15th century building served as a gathering place for members of the Blackheads, an association of merchants. The building and entrance door are incredibly beautiful and the inside rooms used for events look beautiful. I’d love to come for a classical concert.
*Free with Tallinn Card
St. Olaf’s Church
Although the viewing platform is open seasonally from April till October, the historic church is still worth a visit in Tallinn during the winter.
*Free with Tallinn Card
Town Hall Pharmacy
Right in the main town square is the oldest continually operating pharmacy in Europe. It was first mentioned in town records in 1422. As many as 10 generations of pharmacists from one family have worked here! How cool is that. It is still operating as a pharmacy, although it can get pretty crowded in there and may not be your quickest choice for picking up much needed over the counter medicines, etc. But it’s very quick and easy to come in and look around and see old apothecary relics. They even offer guided tours and workshops on occasion. More info HERE.
*Free to enter, but they ask for groups of 10+ make a reservation and pay a 2€/pp entry fee
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
Undoubtedly the most notable and impressive church in Tallinn, the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral sits atop the small hill above old town. The Eastern Orthodox church was built in the late 1890’s when Estonia was part of the Russian Empire. The beautiful architecture and lovely interior are absolutely worth a visit and entry is free.
Kohtuotsa and Patkuli Viewing Platforms
These two platforms are very similar and close together, so you may as well visit both when you’re walking to the area. These provide the best overall view of the city. You can see both parts of the old town and out to the neighborhood of Kalamaja (more on that later). Khotuotsa arguably is the more popular and better view of old town.
There are a number of shops and quaint narrow alleyways in this area as well and it’s considered the “upper town” because it’s atop the small hill looking down on old town. There are two ways of walking to these viewpoints. One is from the long staircase on the backside on the northern edge of old town wall where you come immediately to Patkuli Viewing Platform. The other way is by continuing walking uphill from Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and you’ll eventually come here. Just put them in your Google map because it can be confusing with all the streets.
Both of these viewing platforms are great spots to catch sunrise or sunset, if you can actually catch Tallinn on a day without dreary cloud cover.
Go Up the Elevator in St. Nicholas’ Church
This 13th century church was restored after damage in WW2. Today, it houses one of the only museums in northern Europe within a former church. During Christmas there is a beautifully decorated tree and on some days at 4pm you can come during the organ playing. The elevator will take you up to the top viewing platform or you can take the narrow tight staircase.
Unique Ideas of Things to do in Tallinn, Estonia
Most people spend their time in the old town of Tallinn, which I completely understand. It is the most historic, charming, festive place to be especially in the winter in Tallinn. But if you have a bit of extra time, say more than 2 days in Tallinn, consider visiting these other spots too.
Iglupark
I actually don’t think this should be reserved for “extra time” in Tallinn. Of my 5 days in Tallinn, Iglupark might have been my favorite experience. But admittedly I’m really into things like this; it’s definitely not for everyone. As far as unique things to do in Tallinn, especially in the winter, it doesn’t get better than this.
About 1 mile outside of the old town, located right on the Baltic Sea, is Iglupark. This is a hotel, public sauna, and bar. You can come for all of it or none of it, haha. We took a Bolt to get here and back and it was only a few euros.
Iglupark has igloo-like hotel rooms, Igluhuts, that you can stay in right there on the Baltic Sea. Had I known this, I absolutely would’ve stayed here for a night.
Book Your Stay
The other option is to come as a guest and enjoy the saunas during set hours.
- Option 1: Private Sauna Session – Rent the entire sauna for up to 10 people from 80 to 160 euros/hour for a minimum of 2 hours. Available times are from 11am-11pm
- Option 2: Public Sauna in the morning from 8am-12pm or in the evening from 5-10 pm. The two saunas are available for 24€ per person. You can buy your ticket online and it’s not for a specific day.
- Option 3: Public Sauna in the Morning 30 day Pass – Come unlimited times during the morning hours for 80€ per month.
Heldeke Theatre Bar
I’d had this unique spot in Tallinn on my list but honestly forgot about it until after I’d left. It looks really neat, so I’m bummed to have skipped it. So please let me know if you make it there!
This bar is like a stand up comedy club, burlesque theatre, music venue, other types of shows, plus – get this – a sauna. You can check their calendar for featured shows as well as sauna sessions on their website HERE.
Kalamaja Neighborhood
This creative, up and coming kind of hipster neighborhood is considered a must-visit while in Tallinn. It is completely different from the old town. It was the neighborhood of fishermen since the 14th century until 1870 when a railroad between Tallinn and St. Petersburg was completed. Since then, the area has been dominated by factories. Today, many of the industrial buildings have been repurposed as restaurants and galleries like Telliskivi Creative City, a former industrial complex that houses the photography museum, Fotografiska, and different restaurants.
Telliskivi is the main street with art and restaurants. Another street called Valgevase displays rows of traditional wooden houses that are worth a gander.
Balti Jaama Tug
This is a large, 3 story indoor and outdoor market in the Kalamaja neighborhood. You can find food vendors for good prices, antiques, clothing, fresh produce, and seafood. It’s an absolute must when you’re in the Kalamaja area, and honestly I feel like you could spend hours in there.
Where to Eat and Drink in Tallinn, Estonia
The food scene in Tallinn can’t be overstated. I had no idea how impressive it would be and I was blown away by the coffee, bars, cafes, and nice restaurants. Of course we couldn’t possibly make it to all the places I had on my list, but I tried.
Also something to note, free tap water was only sometimes available. Some restaurants had a big water dispensing station with cups, others brought you tap water if asked, and some flat out refused and you could only buy bottled water. Sometimes we brought our own bottle with us just to avoid having to pay for it each time.
The following list is not comprehensive, and I won’t make the claim that anything is “the best” but these were places we loved for different reasons.
Where to Get Coffee in Tallinn
RØST: The small shop is known for their cinnamon and cardamom buns. I actually didn’t try either, as I was just there for the coffee which did not disappoint! It’s a bit of a walk from the old town, maybe a kilometer, but it’s located in a really neat area of Tallinn called Rotermann. It’s really modern and industrial and a worthy neighborhood to check out.
La Boulangerie: In a similar area as RØST, this French pastry shop has an incredibly beautiful espresso machine and entire shop.They too have gorgeous and delicious pastries. We were particularly obsessed with the almond croissant.
Caffeine – Because we had jet lag, we were always up super early wanting coffee immediately. Tallinn, at least in the winter, seemed to wake up slowly. The old town was dark and dead until 9 am. Many restaurants and cafes don’t open till 9 am. The earliest coffee shop we could find was Caffeine at 7:30 am, which is close to the square, has cute decor, and is honestly pretty good for a chain. In general, most restaurants in Tallinn have excellent coffee, superior to most espresso you’ll find in many parts of the world. So Caffeine for convenience.
Fika: I actually didn’t get to try their coffee, but I had it on my list. They are in the Kalamaja neighborhood just east of the old town. But they do open at 8am and have lovely looking pastries that might be worth a morning walk.
The Brick Coffee Roastery: If you’re in the Kalamaja neighborhood, the quirky street of Telliskivi has a number of good restaurants and cafes. This is a quality coffee roaster and should be on your list!
Where to Eat Breakfast in Tallinn
As mentioned before, Tallinn restaurants take a while to open up. At some bakeries or coffeeshops like Caffeine, you can find a pastry earlier. So we often had coffee at Caffeine at 7:30, went to breakfast at 8:30 or 9 am, then also had a second coffee with breakfast or another shop like RØST. Here were our favorite breakfasts:
RUKIS: We ate here almost every morning and loved it. Not to mention, it’s one of the only places that opens at 8 am! RUKIS is on a beautiful main street right by the square. The interior decor is absolutely beautiful, especially for the holidays and the cozy vibe is perfect for winter in Tallinn. Prices were pretty good and they also had a delicious flat white and incredible assortment of pastries. We got the omelette and pancakes and both were excellent.
5Senses Tallinn: They open at 9, otherwise we probably would have come more often. This small restaurant is very cute. They have a great menu with eggs Benedict, chicken waffle, breakfast burrito, and avocado toasts.
Pub Kompressor: This is an extremely popular pancake restaurant. More of a crepe style, but these pancakes are absolutely massive and you should consider sharing one unless you have a big appetite. When we came in the late morning, they were packed and there was literally a line out the door. We waited probably 20 minutes for a seat. You have to order at the front counter. Prices are quite reasonable for how big they are and crepes have all different fillings from sweet to savory.
T35 Breakfast Club: I didn’t get to try this place either but they have a great looking and unique breakfast menu. Coffee looks good too. This one is a ways into the Kalamaja neighborhood which is why I didn’t make it there, but if you feel like a good walk, or are in the neighborhood, it may be worth it.
Värav: I somehow forgot to go here, but it’s not far from the center of old town and has really yummy looking acai bowls, avocado toast, and fresh juices.
Where to Eat Dinner in Tallinn
Tallinn’s eclectic dining completely surprised me! I wouldn’t call myself a particularly adventurous eater or a huge foodie, mainly because I’m relatively picky, however I love a creative food menu with local healthy ingredients and a good vibe. I did plenty of research about where to eat in Tallinn and I feel there are a couple places you shouldn’t miss.
Restoran Olde Hansa: I realize I already discussed this restaurant above, but I honestly feel like this is a must-do in Tallinn, especially in the winter when it’s cold out. You’ll immediately be transported to medieval times. With candles flickering, heavy velvet curtains, and medieval scenes depicted on the walls, it feels a bit like you’re in the banquet rooms of a castle. Or a scene from Game of Thrones. It sounds cheesy but I assure you it’s amazing. Reservations are recommended.
Restaurant Rataskaevu 16: This is a very popular elevated dining experience. The dishes are creative, portions are decent – not massive, but also not a portion for a bird. The warm chocolate cake is literally out of this world. You may know it as lava cake, which is what I’ve always called this type of dessert. Truly spectacular. I definitely think you need a reservation.
Väike-Rataskaevu: This is actually an offshoot of the more popular and well known Rataskaevu 16. This smaller sister restaurant has a paired down menu but we found it to be quaint, friendly, and totally uncrowded. We walked in two nights in a row without a reservation. Their menu still features the warm chocolate cake, which is possibly the top reason to come.
Tai-Boh: This quirky Asian fusion restaurant run by a Thai chef is so worth a visit. The interior is like a work of psychedelic maniacal art. The building itself is full of history and it’s just on the edge of the old town. I recommend making reservations on their website.
Manna La Roosa: This one is the attached bar and restaurant to Tai Boh. They have their own menu and equally unique decor.
Restaurant F-Hoone: This was recommended to us by our walking tour guide, and I’d marked it on my map to visit, but alas, it didn’t happen. This repurposed old factory has an impressive menu of starters, drinks, mains, and lots of vegetarian options, as well as a full coffee menu.
Restaurants For On-the-Go in Tallinn
If you’re anything like me, lunch is frankly an inconvenience when traveling. I’m much happier eating a big breakfast and then planning out a nice dinner. Lunch just gets in the way of activities. But I do tend to get hungry and want to grab something cheap and easy as I’m sightseeing. Here are some ideas for quick, affordable, on-the-go lunches in Tallinn.
III Draakon: I mentioned this restaurant already when talking about medieval restaurants in Tallinn. I feel like this one makes a better quick bite than an actual sit-down restaurant. It’s right in the market square, you can walk in and order at the counter, then take it to go or sit at a picnic table or inside table and be done in a flash. The little empanadas are only a few euros and they’re good.
Balti Jaama Turg: I mentioned this huge market before, but it’s a perfect spot to grab lunch. It’s almost like a mall/food court with a bunch of different options at great prices.
Gelato Ladies: While probably more appropriate for summer, I can’t fault you for wanting a gelato even in the winter.
Pulla Bakery: It is known for their cinnamon buns and fresh baked pastries. They also have a full coffee menu. It’s also one of the few places where the reviews consistently mention friendly service, something that is not abundant in Estonia. They also have sandwich options.
Kofeman Cafe: This is actually a coffee shop cafe right near the main square. I didn’t get to try the coffee unfortunately. One thing I didn’t like was that they were automatically using takeaway cups for everyone, although I imagine you could ask for a cup to stay. They have pastries as well as sandwiches to go. We were happy to grab a quick sandwich on our way to a walking tour so we didn’t starve.
Cocktail Bars to Visit in Tallinn
Whisper Sister: Of all the places we went out for an evening drink (ok, there weren’t many), this one was mostly about the journey. I’m not a huge drinker, in fact I can’t really tolerate more than 1 or 2 drinks, plus I’m just too budget conscious to drink a lot. However, I have a huge obsession with speakeasies, and frankly I think it has more to do with the creativity of them and the history nerd in me than anything.
You can find Whisper Sister on Google maps. It’s just on the southern edge of the old town. Once you arrive though, you have to look for a tiny gold plaque on the door with a phone number. You need to call the number and someone will come up to meet you and open the door. The space is classy but not over the top. Cocktails were quite good. A reservation is also needed ahead which you can book on their website.
Sessel Speakeasy: Although this isn’t a traditional speakeasy, the entrance is not particularly obvious. Google maps will bring you to the street and you can look up and see the bar windows on the second floor. To access it, go into the shop on the street level, walk through the shop until you come to a staircase on the right and go up. I had my favorite cocktail there of the trip – a coconut something or other. We did not need a reservation however their website does have the option so they probably prefer it.
Sigmund Freud: A nice bar with innovative fun cocktail recipes and a creative environment and decor.
Noku: This too is a hidden speakeasy style bar with a discreet door. Follow google maps and look for a distinctive blue and red door. There is a keypad to the right of the door. The code apparently can change, but I read it was 2580, straight down the middle. Then you go upstairs to the cozy environment. They also have a really impressive food menu. It’s not a fancy environment, just a cozy and relaxed place where you might sit and play a board game.
What to Pack for Winter in Tallinn, Estonia
If you plan to come to Tallinn in the winter to experience Christmas magic, then you must come prepared. I absolutely would have been miserable if I hadn’t brought the outerwear that I did. Throw your concerns about looking cute out the window. Warmth and comfort is number one. Looking cute is number two.
Long Puffy Coat
It may sound strange, but I actually brought two puffy coats. Originally, I did it for versatile fashion, when in reality I ended up being so cold, I actually needed the two at the same time. My favorite Save the Duck puffy jacket comes to my thighs and then I also had a huge long coat to wear over it. I rented it from Rent the Runway. I love their service and have used it for years. It’s my favorite way to have different, unique clothes for a vacation.
Similar Save the Duck coat to the one I wore:
I definitely think you need a big giant coat like this to be comfortable walking around all day in below zero temperatures. Save the Duck is a B Corp and amazing quality. But Amazon has plenty of great options like this one. You don’t have to be crazy like me and bring two. Just have a good insulated layer or fleece underneath. And some days are warmer than others, of course. We hit a very cold spell with negative temps.
Fleece Leggings
Not a day went by on my trip where I didn’t wear my fleece tights or leggings under other leggings or under a dress or jeans. I couldn’t have survived without them. I have multiple pairs. I have these. Just keep your toenails short so they don’t snag or cut a hole in the thinner tights part on your feet. And have socks too,
Warm Hat
This goes without saying but you will want a warm hat to cover your head and ears.
Warm Boots
Even if there isn’t snow, you’ll want warm boots for Tallinn in the winter. It gets very cold. I thought I brought warm boots. They felt warm until I was walking in them for more than 30 minutes and my toes went numb. Sorrels with the fuzz inside is probably a good bet or something with wool. What I like about these two pairs pictured, is the fact that they have zippers which are great for airports!
Wool Socks
I actually considered bringing heated socks like THESE but opted not to. I wish I had.
Mittens or Gloves
Unless you’re super human, your fingers will probably get cold after a while of walking around in subzero temperatures. I think mittens are way warmer than gloves. They don’t have to be super heavy and thick.
Fanny Pack or Sling Bag
Ok hear me out on this. Have you ever tried to put a purse on your shoulder over a big puffy coat? With gloves on? Not easy and it constantly slips down. I loved having my fanny pack under my coat. It’s more secure and I could easily get into it by zipping my coat down once I was inside at a restaurant where I needed my wallet. I have these two and love them.
Summary of Tallinn in Winter
I hope this post has convinced you that visiting Tallinn, Estonia in the winter is definitely worth it. Tallinn is a magical place to be for Christmas and winter weather.
- Spend at least 2-3 days in Tallinn to see the best of the city.
- Pack for the weather, bring lots of layers and cold weather clothing.
- Get the Tallinn Card if you plan to visit a number of museums and use public transportation
- Use Bolt for getting to and from the airport or bus station
- Credit cards are readily accepted but have some small bills or change for tipping








































































This is an incredible trip, so interesting, and it’s so well documented. I enjoy these trips Jessica takes so much. I’ll be reviewing this trip for tidbits and specifics for quite some time. I have to go back and study the pictures, and how they fit into the entire trip. I can’t wait for Jessica’s next trip. I’ve been following Jessica’s trips on “My Feet Will Lead Me” ever since her trip to the Salton Sea became my own guide for going there, and now I follow all her trips. I see that Jessica has a great Instagram page, so I’ve started following her there too. So much to see and so much to learn!
Wow, thank you so much Mike. I really appreciate that. It means a lot that you follow along and I hope I can continue to inspire you to visit a new destination or two!
Hello
Fantastic information and recommendations We are going to visit Tallin for 3 full days on our way back to Australia I would love to do a Husky Ride day Tour can you recommend
Stay Safe
Regards Julie
Hi Julie! Thanks for your comment. We didn’t get to do the Husky sled rides but it sure looks fun. This was the only one from Tallinn that I could come across. https://tallinndaytrip.com/tours/tour-to-husky-park-and-dog-sled-ride/
Your experience helpen us a lot to plan our trip!
I will let you know how it was.